tasting / laying down / 2023 Burgundy
and sweet in feeling. A soft, rich texture here; more velvety, a waft of exotic aromas enveloping the palate and carrying the finish. 2027–32. | 93
Volnay Premier Cru Taillepieds
There is much more energy and intensity in this Taillepieds. Here there is both blackberry and redcurrant fruit. Maybe a mix of ripeness. It is tight and sweet and concentrated, and much more defined at the edges. There are herbal notes, a green snap and crunch. This seems fresher than the Cailleret, more interesting and with more presence. Certainly my favorite in this lineup. 2026–32. | 94
DOMAINE HENRI BOILLOT A rich, opulent, and oaky style here this year. Alcohol levels are mostly just over 14% for both reds and whites.
White Meursault Premier Cru Les Genevrières
Straight and intense, with a high mineral line. There is sweet-citrus freshness and good tension on the finish. 2027–33. | 93–94
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Clos de la Mouchère
This is a 4ha (10-acre) monopole that lies within Perrières. The vines are 75 years old. An extra level of fruit intensity compared to the Perrières. Straight, powerful, but more precise at the edges and on the finish, which is longer, the minerality more silvery. 2026–36. | 94–95
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Pucelles
Silky and creamy; flowery and flowing. It focuses into a fine and delicate, saline-sustained finish. Carries the oak. Lovely example. A pure ribbon of delight. My favorite of the premier cru whites for its refinement. 2027–36. | 95
Montrachet Grand Cru
Intense, focused, powerful, and persistent. Certainly rich and ripe. Very consistent across the palate. Powerful length. 2028–40. | 97
Red Chambertin Grand Cru
Red-currant and spicy fruit up front. It is silky and fluid on the palate, finely textured, and ripples through the long and elegant finish. Rich but bright and focused. There is a lot of oak, but it streams with the fruity intensity on the finish, which is excellent. 2028–40+. | 97
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
Opulent, richly fruity, and scented. Expressive and with immediate impact. Extravagant and exotic. Big volume here and, on the finish, a blast of purple aromas. I prefer the quieter and much more restrained Chambertin, but after the “show,” the perfume does linger on the Bèze. 2028–38. | 95
190 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 87 | 2025
DOMAINE MICHEL LAFARGE Frédéric Lafarge comments on the season: “We did a very strict debudding. We had a very good flowering, and, in the end, we had normal quantities. No need for a green-harvest.” Yields were 38–42hl/ha for red premiers crus and 48hl/ ha for regional wines. “I think 2022 is a great vintage for aging, but 2023 is more accessible and so we can drink it earlier,” says Frédéric, “but you can also keep 2023, for it is fabulous.”
Beaune Premier Cru Grèves
Mostly from 102-year-old vines but 25% from younger, seven-year-old vines. Super-juicy, with lucid red fruit and nice acidity. Elegant Beaune. There is a light grip to the tannin, maybe accentuated by the CO2. Sweet but light-footed, with raspberry and minerality to finish. 2026–35. | 93
Volnay Premier Cru Caillerets
From 65-year-old vines and some young vines planted in 2020. A floral, rose-petal aroma. Rich, ripe, summery fruits. This catches the perfect moment of ripeness, for it is super-ripe but not overly sweet, and a salty minerality is left on the palate, which is persistent and focused. A pure and refined Caillerets. 2026–35+. | 94–95
Volnay Premier Cru Clos des Chênes
Another old vineyard (65 years old). Much more reserve, tasted after the Caillerets. The palate is austere and tight. Very intense, channeled, and focused. I like the vigorous and powerful finish. It is ripe, but strict. Excellent terroir expression. My favorite. 2027–35. | 96
Volnay Premier Cru Clos du Château des Ducs
Gorgeous depth of red fruit and so much generosity on both nose and palate; there are floral notes that waft around the palate, and a rich, silky, smooth depth of tannins. It is the most indulgent of these premiers crus, with the most opulent finish. 2027–35. | 95
DOMAINE HUBERT DE MONTILLE “A severe green-harvest was important for the juice-to-skin ratio,” explained winemaker Brian Sieve. “I modified the whole-bunch, as the volume was too high—2023 had historically high yields for reds at the domaine. Yields for reds averaged 47hl/ha—52hl/ha was the highest. If it was above 45hl/ha, I did a saignée. The highest alcohol levels for reds were 13–13.3%. The reds are bright and fresh and acidic and should age well. I prefer 2023 over 2022, over 2020.”
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Aux Malconsorts Cuvée Christian
A cuvée from the northeast corner of this distinguished vineyard. More than two thirds whole-bunch and 40% new oak. This is a level up on the other Malconsorts cuvée, super-intense and dense. Rich depth of tannins and dark, inky, rich fruit. A full-bodied wine, with a very long and spicy finish, and the whole-bunch brings freshness to the end. 2027–40. | 95–96
From Rugiens-Bas. 80% whole-bunch. 35% new oak. Rich and dense. Some muscle, but it is lithe and toned and powers into the persistent, earthy finish. Marked tension. Top-notch. 2027–38. | 95–96
Volnay Premier Cru Taillepieds
Two thirds whole-bunch, as there was not the space for 100%. 13% ABV and one of the higher pHs here, at 3.65, yet this is also among the freshest to taste. 30% new oak. Upright and energetic. Pounces on the palate. Fine-textured and taut expression. Plenty of energy into the sappy finish. 2027–36. | 95
DOMAINE POUSSE D’OR At Pousse d’Or they describe 2023 as “a vintage of exuberance.” They had an “exceptionally large” crop but did no green-harvest and instead “threw away a lot” during sorting. “We kept only the best.”
Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
From Mazoyéres. Vibrant blackcurrant, fresh and zesty. An energetic Charmes, with a fine texture of tannins and an appealing crispness. Quite delicate to finish. Charming for Mazoyères. 2027–35+. | 95
Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
A lightly exotic, scented aroma on the front palate, but under this there is a cool and chalky core. Like the Charmes, there is a delicacy to this grand cru. Subtle. Perfumed on the finish. “Over the years, it has become more delicate.” 2027–35+. | 95
Echézeaux Grand Cru
From Les Poulaillères. Smooth glide, easy charm, a rich and sensual texture. Dark fruit, ripe blackcurrant. There is sweetness and a balance of acidity woven through into a nicely persistent finish. Very good typicité. 2027–35. | 96
Volnay Premier Cru Clos des 60 Ouvrées (monopole)
Rich, dense, dark, red-cherry fruit. Sweet and ripe attack, but more energy than the previous wine. Smooth, quite light tannins, coming more from the oak. The finish has a cracked cherry-kernel note, which gives it lift and bite. 2026–34. | 93
Volnay Premier Cru Clos de la Bousse d’Or (monopole)
From a 2.14ha (5.2-acre) clos in the middle of Volnay. This is more refined than the Caillerets. Fine-textured, with lighter tannins. Red fruit, good tension, and a light vibration to the finish. Slightly saline at the end. An elegant Volnay. 2026–32. | 94
Pommard Premier Cru Pézerolles
From sandy limestone. At least one third whole- bunch. 25% new oak. Smooth and silky and pure. Dark fruit, with violet and other floral notes, then on the finish it is sapid and salty to finish. Very good terroir expression, and this is one of my favorite wines from this side of Pommard in 2023. An elegant sweep. 2027–36. | 94
Pommard Premier Cru Rugiens
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140 |
Page 141 |
Page 142 |
Page 143 |
Page 144 |
Page 145 |
Page 146 |
Page 147 |
Page 148 |
Page 149 |
Page 150 |
Page 151 |
Page 152 |
Page 153 |
Page 154 |
Page 155 |
Page 156 |
Page 157 |
Page 158 |
Page 159 |
Page 160 |
Page 161 |
Page 162 |
Page 163 |
Page 164 |
Page 165 |
Page 166 |
Page 167 |
Page 168 |
Page 169 |
Page 170 |
Page 171 |
Page 172 |
Page 173 |
Page 174 |
Page 175 |
Page 176 |
Page 177 |
Page 178 |
Page 179 |
Page 180 |
Page 181 |
Page 182 |
Page 183 |
Page 184 |
Page 185 |
Page 186 |
Page 187 |
Page 188 |
Page 189 |
Page 190 |
Page 191 |
Page 192 |
Page 193 |
Page 194 |
Page 195 |
Page 196 |
Page 197 |
Page 198 |
Page 199 |
Page 200 |
Page 201 |
Page 202 |
Page 203 |
Page 204 |
Page 205 |
Page 206 |
Page 207 |
Page 208 |
Page 209 |
Page 210 |
Page 211 |
Page 212 |
Page 213 |
Page 214 |
Page 215 |
Page 216 |
Page 217 |
Page 218 |
Page 219 |
Page 220
