LA ROMANÉE-CONTI AT HÉLÈNE DARROZE


DOMAINE DE


A dinner at London’s The Connaught Hotel featuring an array of mature vintages from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti paired with specially created dishes by chef Hélène Darroze turned out to be the most memorable wine and food occasion of Michael Schuster’s working life


2019—then the Covid-19 lockdown scuppered it. I had nothing to do with the current occasion, inspired by a visit Daniel and his wine team made to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti last summer—other than being asked, at the last moment, whether I would like to cover it for The World of Fine Wine. Health issues notwithstanding, my wife Monika said, “Well, it’ll take you about two seconds to make up your mind on that!” Indeed. More to the point, it is part of The Connaught’s impressive program of wine and food events, featuring their relationships with many of the world’s finest wine producers, partnered with their restaurant’s cuisine under the direction of Hélène Darroze and the restaurant’s executive chef Marco Zampese.


T Setting


The Connaught Hotel’s Maple Room. Thirty eager gourmets from a global sweep of climes around a single table. All ages:


he genesis of this dinner, at The Connaught in London on December 11, 2024, dates back many years. Quite coincidentally, I was planning one with Daniel Manetti, global wine director of Maybourne, which owns the hotel, in the fall of


raven tops, salt and pepper, white hair. The “Informal Smart” dress code is variously interpreted as T-shirt, tie, skirts and dresses of every length, plus a standout silver-studded, black- leather punk. These were almost all regular patrons of The Connaught Hotel and Hélène Darroze’s restaurant there, where the Domaine’s wines have consistently been among the most sought-after selections. The long table, formal of course, but not stiffly so: a white linen tablecloth, and down the middle ten pale cream candles, holly leaves, holly berry reds, dahlia and late rose scarlets, ferns in both leaf greens, and the pale tans and tawnies of decay. A nod to December, Christmas, and Europe’s autumn. At each place was a dark claret envelope, silver-inscribed with a guest’s name, and a menu card enclosed.


Prologue Very few hotels or restaurants offer Domaine de la Romanée- Conti wines by the glass, but it is something that The Connaught does. Not only was the Domaine an obvious choice for their fine wine and food program, but such a dedicated dinner was often suggested by regular diners in the restaurant. And the bringing together of the Domaine and consumers interested in top wines


136 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 87 | 2025


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