The Constance group take wine seriously, employing and


meticulously training 100 sommeliers, 50 in Mauritius alone. The proceeds of the auctioned lots would enable a few of the most talented to visit winemaking regions. I arranged to have a chat with Constance’s Head of Wine,


Jérôme Faure, but all in good time. The wellness center and spa beckoned. After an hour of robust pummeling and kneading by my masseuse, Vanila, I felt relaxed and restored and, on returning to my room, caught sight of the macarons. Now I am partial to these feather-light biscuits. Crisp and moist, these ones were perfectly balanced. And so, on this delicate cloud, I embarked upon my culinary journey. I am no food critic, but when presented with fine ingredients and skillful cookery, I have a palate primed to appreciate them. And my goodness, the seafood was excellent and varied.


It is possible to eat healthily here, but after a few days the will drains away. Remedial recourse could be found in the gym, which I visited religiously each morning before replenishing with a sumptuous breakfast. The gym is surprisingly well- stocked with fitness machines. There’s only one cross-trainer, but no one was fighting me for it. Over a glass of Charles Heidsieck in the Lotus Bar, Jérôme


Faure looked back to 2005, when he began working for Constance hotels. “The big issue in the Indian Ocean at that time was the transport of wine. I started importing directly using refrigerated containers. We fill 40 a year now.” This has an effect on the quality, range, and price of the wine available on the lists in Constance’s various restaurants. “We can manage and select our portfolio.” Accompanied by his head sommeliers, Jérôme visits Europe for a fortnight every year to make his selection. The Prince Maurice has 2,000 references and the savings made on the importers’ margins are passed on to the guests. “Our wines are often half the price of other Mauritian hotels,” he told me. “Some guests come just for the wine.” I had a look through the hefty wine list, in a loose-leaf binder, as it continually updated, and it is impressively wide-ranging. If any of the prices of the entry- and mid-level wines are half the price they are at other hotels, then I worry for the guests staying there—but I guess this is Mauritius. At the top end, prices were keener. Clearly Jérôme takes a


smaller margin on fine wine and the prices of older vintages were particularly attractive. “We don’t re-evaluate the prices of older vintages,” he admitted. When so many good restaurants sell immature fine wine, it’s a pleasure to see more mature vintages, and fairly priced to boot. The Prince Maurice wine list


is well worth a forage, but many of the wines are distributed between Constance’s other hotels in Mauritius, the Seychelles, the Maldives, and Madagascar, so there’s a good chance you will find wines of interest there, too. There is also a good range of wine by the glass, and one


immediately caught my eye: Domaine Raveneau Montée de Tonnerre at $27 (€25). A bit of a bargain. Better still, if you go to the Blue Penny Cellar, you can “ask the sommelier” to select glasses of wines that don’t appear on the list and for which the chef will create special dishes for you. During our conversation Jérôme made an interesting observation. “The humidity and atmospheric pressure in Mauritius emphasizes the alcohol and tannin, and this intensifies two to three days before it rains. I love elegant wine, but it’s also important to have them because of the effect of the conditions here.” He finds that wine from the Northern Rhône works particularly well—“and it’s not because I am from Crozes- Hermitage,” he adds.


Bernard Bouvier (Burgundy) As befits a paulée, which nods to the most famous post-harvest celebration in Meursault, Bernard Bouvier had flown in from Gevrey-Chambertin to represent Burgundy. Bouvier’s “exquisite wine dinner” was held in the Blue Penny Cellar at Constance Belle Mare Plage. This larger hotel, neighboring Prince Maurice, is more of a resort and has a party vibe. Maybe it’s for those wishing to recapture their youth, but for the grown-ups it has the Blue Penny Cellar (and restaurant) with an impressive 3,000 references. The brisk temperature in the cellar is more conducive to wine aging than diners’ comfort, so tog up if you sup there. Domaine René Bouvier is a new listing for Jérôme, who was


looking for some less expensive Burgundy. Bouvier’s attractive Aligoté and Marsannay fit the bill. Although Bernard Bouvier makes his wine on an industrial estate below Gevrey, the family are from Marsannay, where he is president of the growers’ association and instrumental in the current application to the INAO for Marsannay premier cru. Bouvier is a reliable domaine that I have visited for many years. The Marsannay Le Clos Monopole, from the tricky 2021 vintage, was deliciously sappy. It neatly cut through the richness of the veal carpaccio with parmesan and celery. The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Racine du Temps Très Vieilles Vignes had depth, intensity, and a svelte texture. As you would expect from vines on the Couchey side of the village, it combines structure with elegance. The roasted lamb saddle and chickpea ragout


THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 87 | 2025 | 165


All photography courtesy of Constance


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