PRESERVATIVES 75


Table 2: Preservative efficacy test results in SPF28 water-resistant sunscreen formulation CHA-MCTD Combination


% (w/w) in formulation


CHA + Caprylyl Glycol (Spectrastat)


CHA + Ethylhexylglycerin (Spectrastat E)


CHA+ Glyceryl Caprylate (Spectrastat G2)


0.7 1.0 1.0


multiple solvents was performed and Propanediol was determined to be particularly effective at keeping CHA- Caprylyl Glycol systems liquid at very low temperatures. Preservative Efficacy Tests were


performed on these innovative combinations on two types of substrates: Airlaid and Spunlace in a low surfactant, high water content wipes juice formulation with a pH of 5.8 – 6.2.


On both substrates, 1.5% (w/w) of CHA-caprylyl glycol (Spectrastat OL) and CHA-caprylyl glycol-ethylhexylglycerin (Spectrastat OEL) achieved a complete pass result using CTFA criteria. The rise in facial sheet masks presented an additional challenge in cold process formulation where traditional MCTDs like caprylyl glycol can have unacceptable


EP-A criteria Pass Pass Pass EP-B criteria Pass Pass Pass


odor profiles and in some instances irritation on sensitive skin. To address this growing market segment, CHA was combined with the MCTD 1,2-hexanediol also in a propanediol solvent (Spectrastat PHL). This unique combination is a liquid at 10°C and has high water solubility. It provides added benefits of humectancy and a low irritation profile which are especially important in facial sheet mask applications.


Conclusion In summary, the Spectrastat range from INOLEX presents continuous innovation in the area of preservation alternatives, centered on the application of Hurdle Technology with novel ingredient combinations. The proprietary, 100% natural caprylhydroxamic acid (CHA)


CTFA(PCPC) criteria Pass Pass Pass ISO11930 criteria Pass Pass Pass


technology provides formulators with effective preservation options at neutral pH that are aligned with consumers’ views of ingredient safety. Combination of CHA with Medium Chain Terminol Diols like caprylyl glycol or glyceryl caprylate creates complete ingredient systems for enabling formulation preservation. These combinations can be optimised for use in a variety of formulation types to meet formulation design and production criteria, including 100% natural combinations, high water solubility, cold processability, and a variety of other parameters.


PC


References 1 Kabara, J.J. and Orth, D.S., eds., Preservative- Free and Self-Preserving Cosmetics and Drugs., Marcel Dekker,Inc, 1997.


May 2019


PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA


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