66 ANTI-AGING
a relaxing yet stimulating herb, that is particularly relevant for conditions of weak immunity.
Patchouli, also known as Korean Mint, is one of the fundamental herbs in Traditional Korean Medicine and is used locally for its numerous health benefits.
Patchouli gained most of its popularity
from Ayurveda. In India the name of Patchouli means ‘Green leaf’ (Patch-green & ilai-leaf). It is known for quite unique benefits with respect to skin cells’ regeneration and antibacterial properties, improving skin’s self-repair processes. As patchouli development in Indonesia is considered at risk due to soil deprivation, Ashland has instead pursued a totally integrated and sustainable sourcing pathway in Northern Colombia with full traceability. The patchouli is cultivated in a former extensive livestock farm located on undulating land, north of the alluvial and floodplain of the river, in a large swampy area. The biotope consists of large partially floodable meadows. As the farm has only been used for extensive cattle breeding, the soil is rich in organic matter. The farming in Colombia offers an
alternative source to Indonesian patchouli and contributes to the social development of the rural Colombian communities, offering employment opportunities with good working conditions. Interactions with regional and local governmental authorities allow for the support and promotion of local development in this region. A supercritical extraction process allows Ashland to extract from the patchouli leaves the volatile fraction (essential oil) and the non-volatile fraction, which is composed of phytosterols, fatty acids fatty esters, and polyphenols. Because of this unique extraction process, which is based on key principles of green chemistry, Pogostemon cablin extract is unique and differs from conventional patchouli essential oils. Ashland’s Pogostemon cablin extract
offers an alternative to controversial CBD oils or hemp extracts. It has been shown to activate the skin cannabinoid receptor 2 (CB2) in ex vivo skin.
Placebo
Figure 2: The skin’s endocannabinoid system.
The skin has a complete and functional endocannabinoid system with its own CB1 and CB2 receptors, which are tasked with homeostasis, sensory and immune functions. CB2 receptor activation in skin is associated with a balanced epidermal differentiation, immune system competence and increased skin comfort.
Results
Pogostemon cablin extract and the skin’s endocannabinoid system Ashland’s study aims to evaluate the effect of an extract of Pogostemon cablin on CB2 expression in ex vivo skin. Skin biopsies were maintained in culture and treated with different doses of the Pogostemon cablin extract (0.3% and 1%) for 48 hours. CB2 skin expression was evaluated by immunostaining in paraffin embedded tissue, and the results showed an increased staining in the basal layer. These results confirm that the Pogostemon cablin extract is associated with an increase in CB2 receptor expression in ex vivo skin.
Pogostemon extract 0.3%
Pogostemon cablin extract: soothing benefits and improved skin comfort The effects on CB2 receptors have been previously reported as a potential target for reducing the sensation of skin discomfort, without psycho-active effects.4
CB2
receptor stimulation leads to beta- endorphin release from keratinocytes that exhibit anti-nociceptive effects.5 Indeed, beta-endorphin is a
neuropeptide produced by the brain but also is present in skin cells. This neurohormone is involved in numerous inflammatory processes, participating in the local response of the skin to external stimuli, reducing pain. The effect of the extract was determined by its capacity to stimulate keratinocyte production of beta- endorphins. The expression of beta endorphin was investigated by immunostaining (Fig 4). The result has shown that the treatment with pogostemon is associated to an increase of beta-endorphin by 12% and 35% for 0.3 and 1% dose respectively. It is noticeable that the beta endorphin (green
Pogostemon extract 1%
Figure 3: CB2 receptor evaluation in ex vivo skin biopsies. PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA May 2019
CB2 expression
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