WAXES & BUTTERS 57 AMBITION / FLEXIBILITY / PASSION / INNOVATION
Floraesters 70 (softness) Floraesters 70 (break strength)
0.9 0.8 0.7 0.6 0.5 0.4 0.3 0.2 0.1 0.0
150
120
90
60
30
0 0% 0.5% 1.0% Concentration of Floraesters 70 Figure 5: Break strength & hardness control with Floraesters 70 (castor oil base).
1.0 0.9 0.8 0.7 0.6 0.5 0.4 0.3 0.2 0.1 0.0
150 120 90 60 30 0 3.0%
Concentration of Floraesters 60/Floraesters 70
Floraesters 60 / Floraesters 70 Blend (break softness) Floraesters 60 / Floraesters 70 Blend (softness) )
Figure 6: Break strength & hardness control with Floraesters 60 and 70 (castor oil base).
only offer advantages at the bench, such as increased formulation stability, low color and odor, flexibility of product texture and feel with one INCI name (i.e. Jojoba Esters), reduced syneresis in lipsticks, and the ability to customize the aesthetics of stick products (e.g. lipsticks, lip balms, antiperspirant sticks) without sacrificing payout, but they also provide a variety of skin care benefits. As this paper discusses, due to their occlusivity and unique jojoba origin, Floraesters provide increased skin hydration, mitigation of barrier disruption, and improved barrier recovery. In addition, previous studies have also demonstrated that Floraesters strengthen and protect the skin by decreasing skin redness (associated with irritation),2 decreasing skin roughness, and increasing consumer preference, all while providing a non-greasy emolliency.8
The results of all of
these studies prove why Floraesters are ideal for a multitude of skin care, hair care, or color cosmetic applications.
PC May 2019
References: 1 Oliphant T, Harper R. Functionality with Jojoba-Derived Ingredients – Increased Skin Hydration and Consumer Preference with Floraesters . Society of Cosmetic Chemists Technology Showcase. December 2010. Poster.
2 Oliphant T, Harper R. Skin Barrier Protection with Jojoba Esters. American Academy of Dermatology 71st Annual Meeting. March 2013. Poster.
3 Corneometer®CM 825 is a product of Courage + Khazaka (Köln, Germany).
4 Hill Top Chamber® is a registered trademark of Hill Top Research, Inc. (Cincinnati, OH).
5 Tewameter®TM 300 is a products of Courage + Khazaka (Köln, Germany).
6 Chatillon® Digital Force Meter (Model DFM) is a product of Technitrol Investments, Inc. (Wilmington, DE).
7 Waxes were removed in equal proportions to accommodate the addition of Floraesters 60 and/or 70. All formulas maintained color and odor over 12 weeks at room temperature and 43°C, and 2 weeks at 50°C.
8 Floratech final reports available upon request. PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA
visit us at stand 228 7-8 May 2019 New York
www.brb-international.com
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Penetration Depth (dmm) Increasing Softness
Penetration Depth (dmm) Increasing Softness
Break Strength (kg) Increasing Break Strength
Break Strength (kg) Increasing Break Strength
0% / 0% 1.0% / 0% 0.75% / 0.25% 0.5% / 0.5% 0.25% / 0.75% 0% / 1.0%
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