ANTI-AGING 67 Placebo Pogostemon extract 0.3% Pogostemon extract 1%
Figure 4: Beta endorphin investigation via immunostaining.
fluorescence) is located around the cells, in the intercellular space which highlighted a release of the neuropeptide. Beta-endorphins are neuropeptides which minimize discomfort and pain and maximize pleasure. Generally, beta- endorphins act as a stress-defying peptide and transmit a message of calming and relaxing by activating opioid receptors.6,7 Ashland’s Pogostemon cablin extract was demonstrated to be associated with an observed increase in the release of beta- endorphins by skin cells, suggesting an increase in skin comfort.
Pogostemon cablin extract and skin immune competence Furthermore, cannabinoids can interact with other receptors that are associated with itch sensation and skin sensitivity. This function is ensured by a family of receptors known as transient receptor potential (TRP), among which the TRPV1 (transient receptor potential vanilloid 1, also known as the capsaicin receptor) plays a critical role. We mimicked the unpleasant sensation of itch by treating the skin with diverse stressors such as lipopolysaccharides (LPS). LPS are toxins found in bacteria that are known to
Control LPS control
induce secretion of pro-inflammatory cytokines, and interestingly also are linked to the activation and sensitization of TRPV1, possibly contributing to inflammatory pain and itch sensations. The present experiment was conducted on skin biopsies that were stressed by LPS overnight and treated with 1% of Pogostemon cablin extract for 48 hours. We then evaluated immunostaining of
the pro-inflammatory Interleukin 1 receptor and TRPV1 (Fig 5). In accordance with what we find in the scientific literature, this experiment showed the capacity of LPS to increase both TRPV1 and ILR1 (receptor for interleukin-1) by 38% and 104%, respectively. Interestingly, the extract was observed to help counteract this increase by maintaining a level of these markers close to that observed in unstressed conditions. Considering the literature on this subject,8,9
TRPV1 seems to be a central
marker of sensitive skin; therefore, the inactivation of the TRPV1 associated with the limited increase of proinflammatory cytokines corroborates an expected soothing effect of the Pogostemon cablin extract.
Comparable experiments were LPS + extract 1%
conducted under UV stress conditions. It has been suggested that exposure to UV radiation might play a role in the appearance of sensitive skin.9
A UVB dose
of 200 mJ/cm² was applied on ex vivo skin biopsies, which then were treated for 48 hours with the extract. As previously identified with the LPS stress, skin biopsies reacted to UV exposure by increasing TRPV1 and ILR1 receptor activity by 14% and 25%, respectively. Similarly, the treatment of the extract has been associated with a decrease in these two stressed sensitive markers reaching the basal level without stress. Pogostemon cablin extract was shown to be associated with visible reductions in the activity of TRPV1 receptors, which are associated with skin discomfort (reduced UV-induced TRPV1).
Pogostemon cablin extract and skin differentiation and self-repair Recently, CBD has been suggested to exert beneficial effects in epidermal barrier formation.10
Based on gene expressions
markers, the study’s authors demonstrate that topical application of CBD regulates over 150 genes, among which 15 seem to be involved in wound healing and 9 in cell renewal and regeneration. This information prompted Ashland to test the effect of the Pogostemon cablin extract on loricrin and collagen expression. Skin biopsies were treated for 48 hours, and then loricrin and collagen were assayed by immunostaining; the results are summarized in Figure 7. Likewise, the Pogostemon cablin extract is associated with improved epidermal differentiation (increased loricrin) and improved dermal self-regeneration (increased collagen I).
Figure 5: Immunostaining of the pro-inflammatory Interleukin 1 receptor and TRPV1. May 2019
In a final experiment, skin biopsies were exposed to a high dose of UVB stress (200 mj/cm²). Then, the morphology and the structure of the skin were observed by classical hematoxylin-eosin staining. The UV irradiations impacted the skin biopsies dramatically, with numerous pyknotic condensed nucleus demonstrating impaired epidermis. The effect of the Pogostemon cablin extract showed a
PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA
IL–R1
TRPV1
Beta endorphin expression
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