PRESERVATIVES 73
Hurdle technology: an alternative approach
Lisa Gandolfi PhD, Rocco Burgo – INOLEX , US
A significant shift in cosmetics formulation driven by consumer perception of ingredient safety has prevailed in recent years. Consumers have sought to become more informed about the ingredients in their products and have now evolved to be passionate about these ingredients. They know what they want, and do not want, at the point of purchase. Consumers expect effective products that they feel are safe to their bodies, safe for their families, and safe for the environment. Preservation has been a particularly important topic in this changing formulation landscape. Effective preservation is not optional in
a formulation. Preservative systems exist explicitly to maintain the safety of a formulation by keeping it free of microbial contamination. At INOLEX we have embraced the challenge of the changing preservation landscape with safe and effective alternative preservation options. Our technology options centre on the
May 2019
Hurdle Technology approach to preservation. The term Hurdle Technology comes
from an analogy to a hurdler. Each time a hurdler in a race jumps over a hurdle he becomes more tired. In the Hurdle Technology approach formulators combine ingredients and formulation properties to create hurdles for microbial growth. Common ingredient functions for creating hurdles include membrane disruptors, organic acids, and chelating agents. Formulation aspects include pH and employment of Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP) principles.
Membrane disruptors: medium chain terminal diols Medium Chain Terminal Diols (MCTDs) are an important class of multifunctional ingredients that are known to improve antimicrobial efficacy in cosmetic formulations. Caprylyl glycol (Lexgard O)
and ethylhexylglycerin (Lexgard E) are two of the most common MCTDs. Their use in cosmetic formulation has increased significantly in the past five years as formulators have moved away from traditional preservatives with consumer perceived safety concerns. The MCTD glyceryl caprylate (Lexgard GMCY) has become increasingly interesting in recent years because it offers the additional benefit of being 100% naturally-derived and can be used to make Ecocert approved formulations. The proposed mode of action for membrane disrupting MCTDs is interaction with the cell membrane lipids leading to disruption of the cell membrane followed by attraction of water from the cells and eventual cell collapse. The most common MCTDs contain an eight carbon (C8) chain and hydroxyl groups. The C8 chain length is an optimal length for membrane disruption and the hydroxyl
PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA
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