HAIR CARE 19


1400 1200 1000 800 600 400 200 0


Benchmark natural Strong Hold gel (Dehydroxanthan)


Benchmark natural Strong Hold Spray (Shellac)


Benchmark natural Strong Hold Gel (VP/Acrylates/Lauryl Methacrylate Copolymer)


Covestro guideline formulation, Strong Hold Gel (Baycusan® eco E 1000)


Figure 2: Maximum bending force results of undamaged Caucasian hair treated with various formulations.


approximately 50 % as compared to a similar synthetic polyurethane.


Performance benefits in natural hair care formulations Baycusan®


eco products are film formers


which form clear, transparent, elastic and breathable films upon evaporation of water. In hair styling products, the film former is the key functional ingredient which brings the required hold and allows a hair style to resist environmental factors such as high temperature and humidity conditions, or the mechanical stress applied when touching the hair. Nowadays, most hair styling products contain at least one synthetic film former, usually a polyacrylate, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) or one of their copolymers. Because of the high level of performance required, replacing these synthetic film formers with natural alternatives in a hair styling product is particularly challenging. As a result, only a few natural hair styling products are currently available on the market, while many products containing otherwise natural ingredients still contain a synthetic film former of the acrylate or PVP copolymer type.


Table 1: Covestro guideline formulation Strong Hold Gel containing Baycusan®


eco E 1000 INCI Phase A Aqua


Methylpropandiol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Phenylpropanol


Dehydroxyxanthan Gum Phase B Sorbitol


Panthenol Fragance


Bambusa Vulgaris Phase C Polyurethane-93


Weight % 88.00


3.50


1.25 1.50 0.50 0.15 0.10 5.00


Figure 1 displays the high humidity curl


retention (at 30 °C and 90 % relative humidity) of a strong hold gel formula based on Polyurethane-93 (Table 1) as compared to various commercial gel formulas, either based on natural or on synthetic polymers (in this particular case on VP/Acrylates/Lauryl Methacrylate Copolymer). Figure 2 displays the maximum bending force obtained with the same formulations. Polyurethane-93 is based on the same technology as the synthetic Baycusan


polymers, and therefore offers the same performance advantages over other synthetic polymers; Polyurethane-93 enables both a very flexible and durable styling, with excellent humidity resistance, as can be seen when comparing the results of the Strong Hold Gel guideline formulation containing Polyurethane- 93 with the benchmark Strong Hold Gel. Cellulosic derivatives such as xanthan or


dehydroxanthan gum are natural substances that swell in water and are therefore primarily used to thicken formulations. Nevertheless they are sometimes also used as a replacement of synthetic film formers in order to provide hold in natural hair styling gels. Since efficient and long lasting hair styling requires resistance to high humidity conditions, using this type of very hydrophilic raw material is however often detrimental to the performance of the formulation. Indeed, the Covestro Strong Hold Gel formula, thickened using dehydroxanthan gum and containing Polyurethane-93 film former, exhibits both a significantly better hold and higher humidity resistance than the benchmark natural Strong Hold Gel containing only dehydroxanthan gum as film former.


Figure 3: Flaking after combing European hair strands treated with a 2%-wt aqueous solution of either xantham gum or Baycusan®


eco E 1000. After


application of the polymer solution, the hair strands are dried at 23°C and 55% rel. humidity overnight, and combed twice from root to tip (once from each side of the flat strand).


May 2019 PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA


Maximum Bending Force (mN)


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68  |  Page 69  |  Page 70  |  Page 71  |  Page 72  |  Page 73  |  Page 74  |  Page 75  |  Page 76  |  Page 77  |  Page 78  |  Page 79  |  Page 80  |  Page 81  |  Page 82  |  Page 83  |  Page 84  |  Page 85  |  Page 86  |  Page 87  |  Page 88