36 ANALYSIS


Neo-universal: back to universalcosmetics


 Jennifer Karuletwa – Peclers Paris, US


Peclers Paris, a leading creative and innovation consultancy for beauty, fashion & lifestyle brands, shares a unique and forward- looking perspective on the evolution of diversity in beauty. In the past, beauty products were largely


produced to a ‘one size fits all’ specification with slight variation for the most common skin types. This was mostly due to a question of economics; it is much cheaper for manufacturers to work this way. As the number of variations on a formulation increases, so do the associated costs (ingredients, packaging, and production). Hitting the ‘sweet spot’ in terms of the largest product-buying demographic makes a lot of sense, but it also leaves many people feeling un-catered for and under-valued. In recent years, there has been growing


pressure for manufacturers to be more accommodating and reflect the enormous variety of ethnicities as well as the way modern lifestyles are lived. Consumers are less willing to be compartmentalized and want products that work for them. The inclusive beauty trend has resulted in the development of ever-wider product ranges as brands seek to address every


PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA


specific need, ultimately leading to a wasteful use of resources. But at the same time, alternative dynamics are breaking down traditional marketing segmentations based on gender or age. The next logical step in this quest for the essence now turns to the notion of a unique, multifunctional product, a universal ingredient, and rituals or generic scientific formulations adapted to the human body’s biological needs. This new offering is paving the way for tomorrow’s great classics. Some recent examples show how relevant this Universal trend are:


The development and promotion of innovative multifunctional actives Back to the idea of discovering the “Panacea” (the universal medicine), new actives are promoted for their universal virtues. For instance, Neurofense®


, a concentrate for a


global skin care product made from the roots of red sage, is an active that targets multiple problems of sensitive skin: neuronal hyper- reactivity, the quality of the skin barrier and skin inflammation. Tested on Caucasian and Asian skins, it has proven to be efficient on skins of all ethnic types and can provide protection and deliver the appropriate solution to all skins that


The beauty industry must also reconnect with the universal language of our body: common human emotions, feelings, sensations and perceptions ‘All Too Human’ (Tate Britain, London, 2018) proposes a universal representation of the human body based on its intimate, aching and emotional reality as it has been magnificently


May 2019


are sensitive, exposed to severe weather conditions or to pollution.


Brands explore new forms of marketing strategies to step out traditional segmentations (related to gender, age, social class)


It can be by paring down beauty care routines to a single universal product: this is the thinking behind Oh My Cream!’s Crème Universelle, a “universal” day cream for all skin types and all seasons. Dr. Natasha Cook Cosmeceuticals has similarly created multifunctional clinical products to treat common skin problems. The founder believes that all skins have the same biological needs and that science provides efficient generic solutions that transcend artificial marketing categories.


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