HAIR CARE 51 Jojoba wax, an arid-zone renewable
resource, is the only liquid plant wax. It is extracted by cold pressing from the seeds of the shrub Simmondsia chinensis. Its yellow colour is due to the presence of natural anti-oxidants that confer an excellent oxidative stability. Sunflower seed wax is a pale colored hard wax present on seed shells. It is a co-product of the production of the edible oil. This vegetable wax, which is a good viscosity builder with an outstanding oil binding capacity, shows excellent thermal stability.
Its composition has been optimized to
recreate the performance of sebum and 18- MEA thanks to three types of esters. Jojoba esters (C38-C44) are close in chain length to sebum wax esters (C26-C42) but less oily and present good affinity with 18-MEA. Mixed esters (C24-C64) are synthetized via transesterification of jojoba and sunflower waxes. They ensure hydrophobicity with low greasiness compared to sebum triglycerides and squalene. Lastly, polyglycerol-3 esters bring optimal spreadability similar to that provided naturally by sebum monoglycerides due to their amphiphilic behaviour.
Hair benefits
The active texturizing agent reinforces the hydrophobicity of the hair. It acts as a lubricant decreasing friction between hair fibres. It recreates the hair protective lipid layer and improves hair quality in dry and humid conditions.
Its benefits have been evaluated at 2% in leave-on and rinse-off conditions and compared to 2% of silicone oils (dimethicone and dimethiconol), 2% of quaternary ammonium (behentrimonium chloride) and a placebo formula. Various instrumental techniques have been used and results have been confirmed by a consumer test and an expert sensorial evaluation.
Hydrophobicity
A goniometer has been used to measure the contact angle of a water droplet on the dry film formed by the emulsion applied on a glass plate. The drying time was 3h at 23°C and 30% RH. Once completely dry, the formulation containing the active texturising agent creates the most hydrophobic film. Due to optimal affinity and compatibility with hair lipids, it shall leave a very smooth and homogeneous film on the hair surface.
Hair volume Standardized regular curly Caucasian hair locks have been first pre-washed, bleached twice and stabilized for 24h at 23°C and 50% RH. Assessments have been carried out before treatment, 1h after treatment in dry and temperate conditions, and after 4h
May 2019 5 0 Untreated Placebo DefinicireTM Silicone oils Quat
Figure 2: Evaluation of the volume variation of the hair locks in percentage after 4 hours in humid conditions (30°C, 75% RH, AH=22g H2
O/m3 air). 25
20
15
10
hair swatch before
treatment 1h after
treatment in dry
conditions Untreated O/m3 air).
20 10 0
Untreated
10 -20 -30 -40 -50 -60
Figure 4: Evaluation of the frizz variation in percentage.
in hot and humid conditions (30°C, 75% RH, AH=22g H2
O/m3 air). Image analyses have
been performed with a RUMBA System. Based on Figure 1, 1 hour after
treatment (once hair is completely dry), all tresses showed hair volume decrease. After 4 hours in hot and humid conditions, the
hair swatch treated with the formula containing the active texturizing agent showed the lowest volume increase, which is statistically significant (p<0.05) versus placebo and untreated. Figure 2 shows the hair volume variation of all tresses after 4 hours in tropical
PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA Placebo DefinicireTM Silicone oils Quat
Figure 3: Image analysis of the frizz variation after 1 hour in dry conditions (23°C, 50% HR, AH=10g H2
Placebo
DefinicireTM
Silicone oils
Quat
Frizz variation (%)
Volume variation (%)
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