20 HAIR CARE Alternatively, some other natural hair
styling products contain shellac, a resin secreted from insects, known for its use in long lasting nail polishes. Shellac adheres very strongly to keratin substrates and is very resistant to water and other solvents. As a result, it is difficult to wash away of the hair surface and gives a peculiar haptic to the hair. Results of bending test and high humidity curl retention show both an average hold and a poor humidity resistance of the benchmark Strong Hold Spray formulation based on shellac. Furthermore, because of its animal origin, formulations containing shellac cannot obtain vegan labeling. It is possible to increase the hold of a
natural formulation by adding xanthan gum or increasing the amount of cellulosic thickeners. However, most cellulosic thickeners form a stiff and brittle film on the hair that can break very easily under mechanical constrain, thereby generating flakes. In contrast Polyurethane-93 builds highly elastic films, which generate nearly no flakes (Fig 3). In addition, when combined with cellulosic thickeners in a formulation, Polyurethane-93 helps to prevent flaking of the formulation.
For many consumers the hair styling
routine also involves the use of heating devices such as flat or curling irons. Such devices can heat up to 230 °C, a temperature at which degradation of many natural ingredients already occurs. In order to formulate heat protection products, for example for straightening of curly hair, a film former must on the contrary form a thermally stable protective layer of polymer around the hair fiber. Polyurethane-93, as opposed to many natural or synthetic film formers, shows a high thermal stability (Fig 4). Both xanthan gum and PVP start to degrade quickly when temperature increases. On the contrary, when heating up Polyurethane-93, no weight loss is
Figure 5:
Straightening of Caucasian curly hair strands with a 2%-wt solution of Baycusan eco E 1000 (the reference strand is handled in the same manner without applying any product).
Caucasian curly hair without treatment
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
0 Baycusan® eco E 1000
Polyvinylpyrolidone Shellac Xanthan gum
50
100
150
200
250 Temperature (˚C)
Figure 4: Thermal stability of Baycusan eco E 1000 versus natural alternatives (xanthan gum, shellac) as determined by thermogravimetric measurement.
observed before reaching 250 °C, indicating that the polymer stays undamaged at high temperature. Thus, curly hair treated with Polyurethane-93 can be very efficiently straightened. Furthermore, the obtained straight style is very resistant to humidity (Fig 5).
Conclusion
Baycusan eco E 1000, specially designed for hair care, is the first polymer of the new biobased polyurethane line Baycusan eco. Based on over 50% of renewable material, it maintains the key technical features of Baycusan polyurethanes, such as flexible styling, strong hold and long-lasting, thereby allowing formulators to combine high performance with sustainability. In particular, with Baycusan eco E 1000, bio-based hair care products with strong hold, high humidity resistance and excellent heat protection are now possible.
PC
strand with no product
Hair
Baycsan® eco E 1000
References 1
https://www.cbi.eu/market- information/natural-ingredients- cosmetics/trends/ Which trends offer opportunities on the European market for natural ingredients for cosmetics?
2 Meier-Westhues U. Polyurethane, Lacke, Kleb- und Dichtstoffe (Technologie des Beschichtens), 2007; Vincentz Network.
3 Loredo-Trevillo G, Gutiérez-Sanchez R. Rodriguez-Herrera CN, Aguilar J. Microbial enzymes involved in Polyurethane Biodegradation : A review, Polym Environ 2012; 20: 258-265
4 Alagi P, Chul Hong S. Vegetable Oil-Based Polyols for Sustainable Polyurethanes, Macromolecular Research 2015; 23(12): 1079-1086
5 Hottle T, Bilec MM, Landis A. Sustainability assessment of bio-based polymers, Polymer Degradation and Stability 2013; 98: 1898-1907
No product
Baycsan® eco E 1000
300
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500
The strands are blow dried 3 minutes before passing 10 times quickly the hot iron at 230 °C.
PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA
The straightened hair strands are placed for 6 hours at 30 °C and 90 % relative humidity.
May 2019
Relative Weight (%)
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