WAXES & BUTTERS 55
Benefits of jojoba-derived waxes and butters
Tiffany Quinn MS, Robert A Harper PhD – Floratech, US Floraesters®
15, 20, 30, 60, and 70 [INCI:
Jojoba Esters] are derived from jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis), and are widely used in a variety of finished product categories for skin care, hair care, and color cosmetic applications. Due to their composition and occlusivity, each of the Floraesters provides multiple benefits to personal care and cosmetic formulations, including skin hydration1
Table 1: Physical characteristics. Test Emollient Floraesters 15 Floraesters 20 Floraesters 30 Floraesters 60 Floraesters 70
and barrier repair and protection.2
Floraesters also enhance product shelf life due to their superior oxidative stability. Unlike some ‘jojoba butter’ ingredients, jojoba esters are interesterified, not partially- hydrogenated or a mixture of the oil and wax. Interesterification produces only cis- unsaturated esters and no trans-fats. Because jojoba is a wax ester and not a triglyceride oil, jojoba esters are ‘oil-free’ emollients. Ranging from liquid to soft paste to solid (see Table 1), Floraesters can be utilized within emulsion systems to provide body and skin care benefits, and within anhydrous formulas like lipsticks to achieve the desired hardness, payout, and shine / matte finish.
Oxidatively stable jojoba-derived butters and waxes The inherent stability of an emollient must be taken into consideration when selecting optimal ingredients for a shelf-stable finished product. Many natural butters and waxes degrade over time due to oxidation. This can negatively impact a finished formula’s texture, odor, and sensory attributes. The oxidative stability index (OSI – measured in hours) predicts the oxidative stability of an emollient. Floraesters (now referred to as ‘Jojoba
Esters’) are much more oxidatively stable than other butters such as cocoa butter (80 hours), shea butter (25 hours), and mango butter (<10 hours). The OSI of each of the Jojoba Esters can be found within Table 1. Utilizing stable butters and waxes like the Floraesters, helps create highly stable finished products.
Increasing skin hydration Jojoba Esters 20 and 60 were evaluated for skin hydration at 2% in a very simple o/w emulsion (4.00% Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate, 3.00% Cetyl Alcohol,
May 2019
OSI (hours) 95
135 165 190
>600
(in triplicate) were taken at baseline, and four hours post-test article application. The results appear in Figure 1.
A-vehicle B-2% Floraesters 20 C-2% Floraesters 60 D-5% shea butter
50% G 40% 30% B 20% 10% 0% -10% Figure 1: Increased skin hydration with Floraesters. A D E F
E-5% castor-based butter F-5% com-based butter G-10% petrolatum
0.80% preservative, 0.20% Xanthan Gum, 0.03% Disodium EDTA, and q.s. Water) compared to 5% Shea Butter, 5% Canola Oil (and) Zea Mays (Corn) Starch (and) Silica (corn-based butter), or 5% Castor Isostearate Succinate (and) Hydrogenated Castor Oil (castor-based butter). Ten percent petrolatum was used as the positive control. One application of each test article was made to the dry outer legs of female subjects (n=11). Skin hydration measurements using the Corneometer CM 8253
Melting Point (ºC) liquid @ 25 42 – 48 47 – 51 56 – 60 66 – 70
Texture at 25ºC cushiony liquid
soft, creamy paste soft, creamy paste firm paste hard wax
The data in Figure 1 show that the inclusion of 2% Jojoba Esters 60 increased skin hydration (p<0.01) more than all of the other butters, and 2% Jojoba Esters 20 increased skin hydration (p<0.01) more than the castor oil based butter. There was no statistically significant differences between Jojoba Esters 20, Jojoba Esters 60, and the positive control (10% petrolatum); and each of these performed statistically significantly (p<0.01) better than the vehicle.
Improving skin barrier function Jojoba Esters 20, 30, and 60 were evaluated at 2% in the same simple o/w emulsion for mitigation of skin barrier disruption and skin barrier recovery, as compared to the vehicle without Jojoba Esters. Five percent petrolatum was used as the positive control and untreated skin was used as the negative control.
C
For mitigation of skin barrier disruption, one application of each test article was made to the volar forearms of male and female subjects (n=8), followed by a 12 hour exposure to the skin irritant, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS – 0.3% solution), under occlusion using 19 mm Hill Top Chambers.4 Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements using the Tewameter TM 3005
(in duplicate) were taken at baseline,
and post-patch removal. Percent improvement in SLS-induced TEWL was determined relative to the untreated skin (i.e. skin which was only exposed to the SLS). The results appear in Figure 2. The data in Figure 2 show that the inclusion of Jojoba Esters 20, 30, and 60 prevented disruption of the skin by SLS, and improved skin barrier function (p<0.001) better than the vehicle, and performed statistically equivalent to the
PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA
Percent Hydration Change form Baseline
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