50 HAIR CARE
Natural texturizing agent for healthy hair
Flora Bollon, Myriam Abderrachid - Gattefossé, France
Definicire™ (INCI: Jojoba Esters (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (and) Polyglycerin-3) is an active texturizing agent that recreates the hair protective lipid layer. 100% of natural origin, based on functionalized jojoba and sunflower seed waxes, it ensures perfect hair discipline in all climates, static electricity control and a comfortable smooth feel. Definicire (now referred to as “active texturizing agent”) is an alternative to silicones and quaternary compounds which are the main ingredients used to formulate hair conditioning products. Indeed, they both present limitations regarding biodegradability, build-up and image, they are not natural and they are unlike the complex hair lipid layer.
Thus, the objective is to obtain a lipidic ingredient, inspired by natural hair lipids
but that will not weigh down the hair or leave an unpleasant greasy sensation. This composition must rival performance of quats and silicones and be suitable for different hair types.
Hair lipid composition
The sebum is one of the major hair lipids. As excreted, it is composed of squalene (12%), wax esters (25%), sterols (3%) and triglycerides (60%) then partially hydrolyzed into free fatty acids (up to 30%), mono and diglycerides and glycerin. Sebum wax esters are long chain esters (C32) that bring hydrophobicity and protection. Triglycerides grease the hair, whereas mono and diglycerides help spreading over the hair shaft.
Another major component of exogenous lipids is 18-Methyl Eicosanoic Acid (18-
MEA), covalently attached to the cuticle surface. 18-MEA is a 20-carbon fatty acid with a methyl branch on C18. This lipid works as a lubricant decreasing friction between hair fibres and its absence influences the sensory perception and appearance of hair. It provides a good hydrophobic surface.
A biomimetic lipidic composition The greasy feel of a lipidic ingredient is a function of the mono-ester carbon chain length. The study of this correlation allows the determination of the ideal chemical composition to combine performance with good sensory attributes.
The active texturizing agent is a unique
ingredient obtained by interesterification of jojoba wax and sunflower seed wax in presence of polyglycerol.
hair swatch before treatment
1h after
treatment (dry hair)
after 4h in hot and humid conditions
Figure 1: Image analysis of the volume variation. Untreated
PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA Placebo DefinicireTM Silicone oils Quat
May 2019
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