56 WAXES & BUTTERS
positive control (5% petrolatum). For skin barrier recovery, 18 hours of SLS
exposure (0.3% solution) under occlusion using 19 mm Hill Top Chambers was made prior to three applications of each test article (performed hourly) to the volar forearms of male and female subjects (n=12). TEWL measurements were taken at baseline, 30 minutes after chamber removal, and one hour after the final test article application. Percent barrier recovery was determined relative to baseline. The results appear in Figure 3. The data in Figure 3 show that the inclusion of Jojoba Esters 20, 30, and 60 protected the skin, and improved skin barrier recovery (p<0.05) better than the vehicle, and performed statistically equivalent to the positive control (5% petrolatum).
Increasing lipstick break strength without sacrificing payout Lipsticks were formulated with and without Jojoba Esters 60 and 70 with either a primarily caprylic / capric triglyceride or castor oil base (see Table 2). Break strength and penetration were evaluated. For break strength, a fully extended lipstick was moved mechanically at a consistent speed into the detection bar of a Chatillon Digital Force Meter (Model DFM).6
The peak
compression force required to break the lipstick (n = 3) was determined in kilograms. For penetration, the hardness of each
formula was tested by means of needle penetration with a penetrometer equipped with a 50g weight. Each formula was melted and poured into a cylinder form to solidify overnight. The needle was placed in slight contact with the smooth surface of the molded wax, then the weight was released. The depth the needle penetrated into the molded wax (n = 5) was recorded in decimillimeters. As penetration increases, hardness decreases (i.e. softness increases). Increasing the hardness of a lipstick can decrease payout. The results of break strength and penetration appear below in Figures 4, 5, and 6. The data in Figure 4 show that the
0.5 0.4 0.3 100 0.2 50 0.1 Conclusion 0.0 0% 0.5% 1.0% Concentration of Floraesters Figure 4: Break strength & hardness control with Floraesters 60 and 70 (caprylic / capric triglyceride oil base). PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA 3.0% 50
Jojoba-derived butters and waxes, such as Floraesters 20, 30, 60, and 70 offer formulators a multitude of benefits, even at relatively low usage levels. Floraesters not
May 2019 100% D C B 80% 60% 60% 50% 40% 40% 30% 20% 20% A 0%
A-vehicle B-2% Floraesters 20 C-2% Floraesters 30
D-2% Floraesters 60 E-5% petrolatum
Figure 2: Mitigation of skin barrier disruption with Floraesters.
Table 2: Vehicle lipstick formulas7 Ingredient (INCI)
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Oil Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil Macadamia Oil
Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax Beeswax
Microcrystalline Wax Preservative Silica
Polyhydroxystearic Acid Pigment Blend
Tocopherol Acetate / Tocopherol
inclusion of 1% Jojoba Esters 60 increases softness without decreasing break strength of lipsticks, therefore, Jojoba Esters 60 can be used to increase payout without losing break strength. Additionally, 1% Jojoba Esters 70
Floraesters 60 (softness) Floraesters 70 (softness) Floraesters 60 (break strength)
Floraesters 70 (break strength) 200 10% 0%
Untreated A-vehicle B-2% Floraesters 20
A 3 Hours
C-2% Floraesters 30 D-2% Floraesters 60 E-5% petrolatum
Figure 3: Improved skin barrier recovery with Floraesters.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Oil Base (%wt.wt)
49.65 0.00
15.00 4.34 5.79 5.07 5.79 0.10 0.20 0.20 13.8 0.05
Castor Oil Base (%wt.wt)
0.00
70.20 0.00 3.00 4.00 3.50 4.00 0.10 0.80 0.50
13.85 0.05
150
increases break strength of lipsticks without increasing the hardness of lipsticks, therefore, Jojoba Esters 70 can be used to create a more resilient lipstick without decreasing payout. The data in Figure 5 show that the inclusion of 0.5-1% Jojoba Esters 70 increases break strength of lipsticks without increasing the hardness of lipsticks, therefore, Jojoba Esters 70 can be used to create a more resilient lipstick without affecting the product aesthetics. The data in Figure 6 show that the inclusion of Jojoba Esters 60 and 70 increases softness of lipsticks without decreasing the break strength of lipsticks, again
demonstrating that Jojoba Esters can be used to create a lipstick with better payout without reducing the resilience.
B E 70% 80% E C D F
Penetration Depth (dmm) Increasing Softness
Break Strength (kg) Increasing Break Strength
Percent reduction in SLS-Induced TEWL (relative to Untreated skin)
Percent reduction in SLS-Induced TEWL (relative to Untreated skin)
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