18 HAIR CARE
Natural and high performing hair styling
Dr Laurence Pottié - Covestro Deutschland AG, Germany
The demand for more environmentally friendly cosmetic products is increasing drastically.1
In order to help consumers in
their purchase choices, brand owners sometimes use labeling with eco labels. However, depending on the type of label, formulations fulfill different conditions on the type and origin of ingredients used, which can still be confusing for the end- consumer. Furthermore, the most stringent labels strongly restrict formulators in their choice of raw materials and the type of products they can develop. Indeed, not all synthetic raw materials can be exchanged for natural products without a significant loss in the properties. Furthermore, the use of natural ingredients often requires developing new formulation concepts in order to achieve stable formulas with good texture and sensory. The ISO norm 16128 was published in 2016 with the ambition to promote innovation and encourage a wider choice of natural ingredients in personal care products. It provides definitions for raw materials that are either fully or partially based on natural resources. For instance, to qualify as naturally derived, an ingredient must (among other criteria to be fulfilled)
100% 80% 60%
Covestro guideline formulation, Strong Hold Gel (Baycusan® eco E1000) Benchmark natural Strong Hold Gel (Dehydroxanthan gum) Bechmark natural Strong Hold Spray (shellac) Bechmark Strong Hold gel (VP/Acrylates/Lauryl Methacrylate Copolymer)
40%
contain at least 50% carbon of renewable origin. This new way of defining raw materials opens doors to innovative sustainable ingredients to replace fuel based materials.
In this context, Covestro launched in 2018 a new line of polyurethane polymers for use in cosmetics and based on more than 50% renewable carbon; the Baycusan® eco line. The first product of this line, Baycusan eco E 1000 (INCI: Polyurethane- 93), is specially designed for hair care. In this article the benefits of Baycusan eco polymers and in particular of Baycusan eco E 1000 (now referred to as ‘Polyurethane- 93’) are reviewed, both in terms of sustainability and application benefits.
Sustainability benefits Polyurethane polymers are obtained by reaction of building blocks containing reactive groups such as acids, alcohols or amines.2
These reactive groups as well as
their reaction products are commonly found in nature, and can be recognized and processed by enzymes. As a consequence, polyurethanes are usually able to biodegrade.3
naturally occurring building blocks
containing the above mentioned reactive groups are available which can therefore be easily introduced into the polymer chain. Literature reports for example the synthetis of polyurethanes from vegetal oils.4
Baycusan eco polymers are
synthesised using building blocks made from plant based cellulose and carefully chosen in order to keep the high level of performance characteristic of synthetic polyurethanes. Fuel based products are built on carbon sequestrated beneath the Earth’s surface. On the contrary, bio-based materials are made out of carbon from the atmosphere that was trapped in plants through photosynthesis. Products based on plant carbon consequently have a better carbon footprint than their fuel based counterparts.5
According to the ISO 16128 Besides, a variety of
norm, the content of renewable carbon of a cosmetic ingredient can either be calculated or measured using a 14C isotope titration standardized method (ASTM D6866). The renewable carbon content of Polyurethane-93, which was measured using this method, is around 60 %. As a direct consequence, Polyurethane-93 improves its carbon footprint by
20%
0% 0 10 20 30 45 60 Time (minutes) Figure 1: High humidity curl retention (30°C, 90% rel. humidity) of various hairstyling formulations. PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA May 2019 120 180 240 300 360
Curl Retention
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