70 PRESERVATIVES
Ingredients focus: preservative solutions
Richard Scott – Editor, Personal Care
It has been well-publicized that the task of preserving cosmetic products has become more difficult due to the range of permitted chemicals reducing in recent years. However, one thing that has not changed is the importance of ensuring products are safe for use.
Ingredient manufacturers have continued to develop novel ways of protecting formulations from potentially harmful microbial contamination while also being conscious of the need to be kind to ‘sensitive’ skins. The natural trend has also impacted this area of cosmetic formulation, with consumers keen to see botanical extracts on ingredients lists as much as possible. Following is a selection of preservative
products currently available from key suppliers from the industry.
Preservative products Ashland has introduced a unique aromatic for the personal care and cosmetics industry that also contributes to the preservation of end use products delivering multifunctional benefits including broad anti-microbial protection. Conarom b aromatic is an effective solution that addresses the growing consumer demand for multifunctional and sustainable ingredients. The aromatic is based on naturally-derived hops extract and the nature identical phenylpropanol. It adds a gentle flowery-to-spicy fragrance to differentiate and impart additional allure to the end use formulation.
At dosages of 0.3% to 2% it contributes to
microbial stabilization by delivering broad antimicrobial protection as a secondary effect. Formulators will appreciate the liquid state, good formulation compatibility and broad pH applicability. Conarom b aromatic can be added to
formulations at any phase of production when worked into products at ambient temperature. Typical uses include body and skin care emulsions, sun care, shampoo and body washes, conditioners and wet wipes. Arlasilk PTM from Croda is a skin-feel enhancer that offers excellent conditioning properties and sensorial benefits for many
PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA
use blend for the economic formulation of wet wipe solutions and application in emulsion or water based products. Lexgard-LO from Inolex is a low odour
skin care and personal wash products. It is mild to the skin and eyes, making it suitable for both infant and sensitive skin applications. Arlasilk PTM can provide excellent
preservative boosting and antimicrobial effects which in turn allow formulators to reduce the usage levels of less desirable preservatives or enhance the efficacy of less effective preservatives. The ingredient can be used to boost the
performance of preservatives in wet wipes, allowing for a reduction in preservative concentrations. This was demonstrated via a double challenge log reduction test, which was carried out over 14 days against mixed bacteria and mixed fungi. Evonik Dr Straetmans’ Verstatil range of traditional preservatives target different types of marketing and budget demands, but keeps efficacy and performance as the top priority. And so, Verstatil aims to close the gap between safety, economy and positive image. Blending multifunctional additives and traditional antimicrobials in Verstatil products allows formulators to work without criticised preservatives while managing costs. Striving for innovation and searching for new and improved ingredients is a permanent goal, while incorporating them into modern cosmetic concepts is an artform. The Verstatil range offers carefully balanced liquid blends, addressing the market challenges of safe preservation and public acceptance, offering various products to fulfil every developers demand. A key product is Versatil MBO, a tailor- made raw material blend for the efficient preservation of wet wipes. A liquid, easy-to-
alternative to caprylyl glycol and is ideal for beauty brands interested in alternative preservation targeting a consumer segment with odor-sensitivity. A multifunctional bacteriostatic agent, Lexgard O-LO can be used as an alternative to traditional preservatives such as parabens and is ideal for fragrance free formulations. The product is manufactured using a unique, highly effective process that yields an ultra-low odour, an option increasingly favoured by cosmetic companies seeking alternatives to traditional preservative systems. Lexgard O-LO has a broad pH range and is efficacious in both emulsion and surfactant based systems. As traditional preservatives become
increasingly out of favor, it is important to provide viable alternative solutions that work. The addition of Lexgard O-LO complements Inolex’s alternative preservation portfolio, which currently includes 24 ingredients that allow for the creation of self-preserving or paraben free formulations to safeguard from microbial contamination. These alternative systems, multifunctional ingredients or combinations thereof, along with other formulation factors, can be utilized as a part of the Hurdle Technology, allowing for the creation of formulations without the inclusion of traditional preservatives. Paraben esters are highly effective
antimicrobial agents and generally considered to be safe for use in cosmetic preservation. Through bad publicity however, many customers demand that their products be free of all parabens. ISCA UK offers a range of paraben free preservative systems and the company’s product development and research team are always seeking new paraben alternatives. A popular alternative to paraben based
preservatives is Iscaguard PEHG (INCI name: Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin). Iscaguard PEHG is a blend of phenoxyethanol with efficacy boosting ethylhexylglycerin. With its primary registered function being a skin conditioning agent, ethylhexylglycerin
May 2019
© SpaPartners /Fotolia
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