52 HAIR CARE
70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
Untreated Placebo DefinicireTM Silicone oils Figure 5: Evaluation of the curl size variation in percentage (30°C, 60% RH, AH=18g H2
conditions compared to 1 hour after treatment (volume variation due to humidity). The hair tresses treated with the silicone oils and quat formulations showed a significant reduction versus untreated but not versus the placebo.
Hair frizz The protocol of this study is the same as the protocol of the hair volume study. According to Figure 3, hair frizz decrease was observed for all tresses except for the one that remained untreated. However, based on Figure 4, the hair
swatch treated with the formula containing the active texturizing agent showed the highest frizz reduction, statistically significant (p<0.05) versus placebo and untreated hair tresses. The hair tresses
T0 Placebo Untreated
Definicire™ Quat
Silicone Figure 6: Evaluation of the curl definition at T0 and after 5 min, 30 min, 1h and 3h (30°C, 60% RH, AH=18g H2 PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA O/m3 air). May 2019 Quat O/m3 air).
treated with the silicone oils and quat formulations showed a significant reduction versus untreated but not versus the placebo.
Curl memory
When exposed to high temperatures and humidity levels, curls that are obtained with hair curlers tend to fall flat. Size variation of the curl is a good indicator of its shape and definition in drastic climate conditions. These ex vivo tests have been conducted in rinse-off conditions. The hair swatches are left to dry naturally after rinse- off. Measurements of the hair swatch length have been carried out after 4h at 30°C and RH >60%. First, hair strands have been washed with shampoo. The tested formula has been applied on hair strands for 30
5min 30
seconds, left for 5 minutes and rinsed with tap water at 37°C for 30 seconds. Hair strands have been combed 3 times. Then, curlers have been applied on hair strands which have been stored in dry conditions for 24h. Curlers have been removed and the length of the strands have been measured. Finally, after a store of 4h in tropical conditions (30°C, RH > 60%, AH=18g H2
O/m3 air), the length of the
strands has been measured yet again. According to Figure 5, the hair swatch
treated with the formula containing the active texturizing agent showed the smallest curl size variation compared to the other tresses.
As can be seen from Figure 6, the hair
swatch treated with the formula containing the active texturizing agent showed the best curl definition compared to the other tresses from 5 minutes and up to 3 hours in hot and humid conditions.
Ease of combing This evaluation compares the mean force required for combing before and 10 minutes after the product application (rinse- off) in wet hair and 30 minutes after the product application (leave-on) in dry hair. Hair combing has been evaluated using the Hair Combing Rig in conjunction with the equipment TA.XT Plus texture analyzer. The studies have been performed on regular curly hair type. Hair samples were equilibrated at 23ºC and 50% RH for at least 24h before running the test. On wet hair, the treatments with quat and the active texturizing agent provided a statistically significant (p<0.05) decrease of the hair combing force versus before treatment, based on Figure 7.
1h 3h
Size variation of the curl (%)
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