92 HAIR CARE Untreated Ammonia AAA 3AB
TABLE 3: DARK-BROWN PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR FORMULATION
Seq# Conventional stabilization Technologies A Water Ascorbic Acid
Tetrasodium EDTA Sodium Sulfite
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Propylene Glycol p-Aminophenol m-Aminophenol
Toluene-2,5-Diamine Sulfate
N,N-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p- phenylenediamine Sulfate
Resorcinol
Ammonia AAA 3AB
∆E vs. Virgin hair 13.18 7.11
8.30 L
26.0 22.1 22.8
a
8.6 6.1
6.8 Figure 9: Colour lifting performance comparison for ammonia, AAA and 3AB alkalizers
TABLE 2: FORMULATION FOR TESTING COLOUR LIFT
Phase INCI Name A Water Tetrasodium EDTA Cocamidopropyl Betaine
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
B
Propylene Glycol Cetearyl Alcohol Oleth-20
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) butter
C D
Ceteareth-20 Preservative Alkalizer
Control 2x bleached
Ammonia % QS
0.30 2.00
2.00 2.50
15.75 3.50
2.00
10.00 0.75 11.00
3AB
emphasizes hair and scalp health.2 Consumers in European regions show
preference for products that minimize damage while incorporating nourishing, plant-based ingredients. AAA and 3AB have been specifically evaluated
in both colour lift and permanent hair colourant formulations with these preferences in mind. Performance comparisons against ammonia demonstrate their potential to fully or partially replace ammonia across a variety of hair colourant applications. Mixed European dark-brown hair tresses were
used for colour lift (Table 2). Testing conducted with 30 volume peroxide mixed with colour cream at 1:1.5 ratio by weight, and addition of 11% alkalizer. The lightening effect on hair was evaluated after 50 min colouring time. Tresses were rinsed; dried and L*a*b* colour characteristics were recorded (Figure 9). A similar evaluation was conducted using
AAA Ammonia 3AB AAA
D E
b
11.5 7.3 8.3
C % QS
0.30 0.30 1.00 2.00
4.00 2.00
0.948 0.981 0.450
0.324 0.200
2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol HCl 0.140 4-Amino-2-Hydroxytoluene Cetearyl Alcohol
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate
Myristyl Alcohol Ceteareth-20
Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerin
Alkalizer
6.00 1.00
4.25 0.75 5.00
permanent hair colour formulations (Table 3) using 20-volume peroxide mixed with colour cream at 1:1.5 ratio by weight. Tresses were rinsed after 30 min treatment time, dried and tested for colour development and L*a*b* colour characteristics (Figure 10).
Conclusion In hair care, particularly in styling and colouring, product performance remains a top priority for consumers, alongside perception and emerging trends. In this paper we have presented new products; Elevance Ultra (INCI: Amino Methylisobutanol) and Elevance Elite Bio65 (INCI: 3-Amino-2-Butanol) offer excellent performance benefits in hair styling as well as hair colourants offering scientists and marketers new options. The products provide functional benefits in all types of hairspray formulations, high or low VOC, water- containing or anhydrous and with any combination of propellants. In addition, for hair colour shades requiring lift,
∆E vs. Control
Control (2x bleached) Ammonia 3AB AAA
45.74 48.54 45.19
L
64.7 21.8 19.8 23.1
a
6.5 4.6 3.7 4.6
b
18.9 3.4 2.4 4.4
NH3 3AB AAA
Figure 10: Colour development and retention of colour after multiple washes PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE October 2026
∆E Initial vs. 10 washes 16.65
16.69 17.60
the desired results can be achieved by blending the products with ammonia, allowing for differentiated claims. The products offer multifunctional benefits in styling (excellent hold, style, great wash-off when needed) and hair colourants (colour development, grey coverage, gentle to use) making them an excellent multifunctional choice for personal care formulations.
References 1. Hair and Hair Care. Cosmetic Science and Technology Series. Vol.17, 1997
2. Mintel. A year of Innovation in Haircare, Styling, Colour. 2025
www.personalcaremagazine.com
0.062 9.80 0.65 0.25
PCM
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