68 PEPTIDES


Leveraging evolution to create a skin longevity complex


Anthony Gonzalez and Svetlana Gorelik – Tri-K


As mindsets shift from anti-ageing to pro-ageing, we welcome a younger, savvier consumer to the ‘Look Your Best’ game. With 70% of Gen Z using skin care treatments as a central element in their self-care routines, and clean beauty shifting from a point of difference to a point of entry in many markets, the pull for natural ingredients as the ‘healthier and safer way’ to optimize the look of skin challenges how innovators can deliver best- in-class performance. While the perception that ‘natural’ means ‘safe’


tends to be more philosophy than fact, natural design is a pillar of innovation across industries. TRI-K coupled natural design with scientific innovation, leveraging a synergistic combination of botanical exosomes and peptides to create NeoColla™, hereafter described as the exosome and natural peptide blend. In vitro and in vivo testing has demonstrated


that the exosome and natural peptide blend rivals a top-performing synthetic peptide for benefits including stimulating collagen production, protecting existing collagen reserves, reducing the intensity and depth of wrinkles, improving skin firmness and elasticity, and increasing dermal density for smoother, plumper-looking skin. With an natural origin index (NOI) of 0.99, the


exosome and natural peptide blend delivers on every front, providing the cutting-edge science of exosomes and peptides with performance backed by statistically significant data, so end users can feel confident that they are doing the best for their skin.


History of peptides In the late 19th century, the Nobel Prize- winning German chemist Emil Fischer’s research on albumin helped build the foundational understanding of the makeup of proteins. Through the deconstruction of albumin into amino acids, his team developed the understanding that amino acids, peptides, polypeptides, and proteins are linked together through peptide bonds. In the early 1900s, Fischer’s lab began


creating synthetic peptides. Starting with a simple dipeptide of glycine (Gly-Gly), his lab would pioneer the synthesis of over 100 peptides of up to 18 amino acids in size.1 During this same time, William Bayliss and


Ernest Starling, British physiologists at University College London, discovered secretin, a molecule produced by the small intestine that triggers the neutralization of stomach acid. Subsequent research revealed this to be a peptide hormone


PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE October 2026


that acts as a chemical modulator of key digestive processes.2 With this foundational understanding of


peptide structure and function, research in these emerging fields accelerated rapidly. Eventually leading to Dr. Loren Pickart’s 1973 discovery of the first peptide shown to signal more youthful cell function, glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine (GHK). In subsequent years, this peptide would be linked to wound healing and tissue regeneration,3


with the


copper version being introduced to topical skin care in the late 1980s.


History of exosomes Exosomes are a more recent scientific discovery, having been simultaneously described in the 1980s by researchers at both Washington and McGill Universities. They were initially thought to be a cellular waste disposal mechanism, helping to remove unnecessary proteins during cell


maturation. Subsequent research has shown that exosomes can contain a variety of cargo, including proteins, lipids, and nucleic acids.4 The big breakthrough in exosomes came in


2007, when Jan Lötvall’s team showed that mRNA in exosomes can be translated into proteins in other cells.5


This shifted the perspective on


exosomes from cellular waste disposal units to powerful biological messengers. Today, exosomes are accepted as small,


lipid bilayer vesicles that protect and deliver molecular cargo. Research continues to uncover findings about their use as drug-delivery systems, regenerative tools, and communication mediators in fields ranging from oncology to dermatology and skin ageing.


Identification of active principles A key objective in the innovation program was to develop a technology that resonates with


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