112 SCALP CARE
microbial ecosystem. Exposure to these irritants may also weaken the skin barrier, making it easier for fungi and bacteria to overgrow or penetrate, worsening inflammation and flaking. In essence, both climate and pollution can
either dry the scalp out or create conditions for microbial imbalance—and both scenarios can lead to more noticeable dandruff. This is why some people only experience it seasonally or after moving to a new city. Dandruff and regular scalp flaking can look
similar at a glance, but they stem from very different causes and characteristics. While dandruff is often tied to imbalances in the scalp microbiome, especially the overgrowth of Malassezia yeast, normal flaking, on the other hand, usually results from dry skin, similar to how skin might flake in winter or due to dehydration. Dandruff flakes tend to be larger, greasier, and
yellow-tinged, often clinging to the scalp or hair. Dry skin flakes are smaller, white, and powdery,
falling off more easily. Dandruff often comes with itching, redness, or irritation. A dry scalp may feel tight or mildly itchy but lacks inflammation. So, while both involve shedding dead skin,
dandruff is more of a chronic condition involving inflammation and microbial imbalance, whereas dry flaking is usually temporary and hydration- related. Although there is no permanent cure, products
containing zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole, climbazole or salicylic acid can help manage dandruff condition. However, these substances exert either an antifungal activity only or just help remove flakes.
Natural and fast-acting ingredient CitriVive™ (INCI: Pseudomonas Putida/ (Grapefruit/Lemon/Orange) Peel Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate), developed by Biosyntia, is a 100% natural ingredient obtained from upcycled citrus peel oil. The production process relies on natural
Malassezia furfur growth inhibition Propanediol
CitriVive 0.2%
-78 -79 -80 -81 -82 -83 -84 -85 -86 -87
Caprylate 0.5%
wild-type fermentation to concentrate an active fraction with >80% monoterpenoid content, giving CitriVive a low carbon footprint and eco-friendly profile.
This monoterpenoid-rich fraction consists of
transitory plant metabolites that are very difficult to extract from citrus peel using traditional methods. For that matter, direct extraction of these molecules is not commercially viable; they are only obtainable at scale through this specific fermentation process. The citrus peel oil ferment filtrate is a
multifunctional active ingredient that helps recover a healthy scalp, exerting its activity at different levels to address the needs of dandruff- prone consumers for a clean, soothed scalp. Its active fraction is characterised by a high content (>80%) of monoterpenoids, secondary metabolites derived from limonene. This oil-soluble molecule has been described
Climbazole 0.5%
in the scientific literature for various effects, in particular the inhibition of protein prenylation.5 Protein prenylation is a type of post-translational lipid modification that enables proteins to associate with cellular membranes and modulates their interactions and signalling functions; this process is involved in cell differentiation and proliferation. Monoterpenoids of this class have been
-81.12%
extensively described for their inhibitory activity towards protein prenylation and their antiproliferative effect, which is beneficial in reducing the production of flakes by dandruff- prone scalp epidermis. Further to the published antiproliferative and
-84.52% -85.98%
anti-inflammatory effects of this monoterpenoid fraction, the citrus peel oil ferment filtrate was tested in vitro for its antifungal activity against reference substances. At just 0.2%, the ferment filtrate inhibited the growth ofMalassezia furfur by 86%, outperforming common chemical antifungal actives at a lower dosage (Figure 1).
Figure 1: Malassezia furfur growth inhibition by the citrus peel oil ferment compared to reference anti-fungal substances
Measured dandruff reduction **** p<0.0001
45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0
D0 ■ CitriVive ■ Placebo -35.5%**** -57.1%*** -76.0%**** -66.8%****
Making the scalp feeling more comfortable and keeping flakes at bay
These effects were further confirmed in a clinical evaluation. The citrus peel oil ferment filtrate was formulated in a shampoo at 0.2% and used every three days by 20 volunteers for 28 days, with a placebo shampoo used by a further group of 20 volunteers. Assessments of dandruff quantity, sebum production, scalp moisture and redness were carried out at baseline and after seven, 14 and 28 days, and again 14 days after the last shampoo application. Dandruff quantity, measured using the
Corneofix® F20 method, showed a progressive and statistically significant reduction in scalp flakiness of 35.5% versus day 0 and placebo after only 7 days, i.e. after two washes (Figure 2). The reduction in dandruff increased
D7 D14 Figure 2: Effect of the citrus peel oil ferment on dandruff quantity PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE October 2026 D28 D28+14
throughout the treatment period, reaching a mean of 76% after 28 days. The effect persisted 14 days after the last shampoo application, confirming the remnant activity of the citrus peel oil ferment filtrate. In some volunteers, dandruff reduction reached 90% after 28 days.
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Tape surface covered by dandruff
M. furfur growth inhibition (%)
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