SCALP CARE 111


Monoterpenoid-rich citrus ferment for tackling dandruff


Joe Power- Biosyntia


Dandruff is one of the most common scalp conditions worldwide, affecting an estimated 50% of the adult population at some point in their lives. It’s characterized by the shedding of white or yellowish flakes of dead skin from the scalp, often accompanied by itchiness or irritation. While not medically serious, it can have a significant psychological and social impact. As benign as it may seem, dandruff reminds us that even common conditions can impact quality of life—making it a worthy subject of study and self-care.1 The condition is most prevalent in adolescents


and adults aged 15 to 50, coinciding with peak sebum production, which can feed the yeast Malassezia, a key contributor to dandruff. Factors such as hormonal fluctuations, stress, dry skin, and harsh hair products can exacerbate the issue. Interestingly, men are more frequently


affected than women, possibly due to hormonal differences and sebum activity. Geographically, dandruff is reported across all regions, but warmer and more humid climates may influence both its occurrence and severity.2 Dandruff develops when the natural balance


of the scalp’s microbiome is disrupted— particularly by an overgrowth ofMalassezia, a yeast-like fungus that normally lives harmlessly on our skin. It usually unfolds in three main steps.


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1. Overactive sebaceous glands During adolescence and adulthood, increased oil production (sebum) provides an ideal environment forMalassezia to thrive.


2. Microbiome imbalance The scalp microbiome is a bustling community of microorganisms—mainly bacteria and fungi—that live on the epidermis and usually coexist peacefully. When this ecosystem is balanced, the scalp stays healthy and flake-free. Yet when it becomes imbalanced, that is when dandruff can flare up. Malassezia furfur is a yeast naturally present on most scalps. In some people, it grows excessively— often due to high sebum (oil) production. This yeast breaks down the oils on your scalp,


producing irritants like oleic acid that, in some people, irritate the scalp and trigger inflammation. That inflammation disrupts the skin’s natural renewal process. A healthy scalp microbiome keeps Malassezia in check. Yet factors like harsh shampoos, stress,


antibiotics, or climate shifts can disrupt this balance, reducing the population of ‘good’ microbes and giving the yeast an opening to dominate. Not everyone reacts to Malassezia’s by-products, but for those who are sensitive, the skin becomes inflamed and accelerates cell turnover—leading to flaky dandruff.3


3. Accelerated skin cell turnover Normally, skin cells on the scalp renew gradually and are shed invisibly. But irritation speeds this process up, causing dead cells to clump together as visible flakes—aka dandruff.4


Other contributing factors Other contributing factors can include dry skin, especially during colder months: Harsh hair products that strip the scalp’s natural oils. Stress, which can affect immune responses and trigger flare-ups. Hormonal changes or certain skin conditions like seborrheic dermatitis or psoriasis. Dandruff does not play by one simple rule—it’s surprisingly sensitive to both climate and pollution, and they can each trigger it in different ways. Cold, dry air (like in winter) can dry out the


scalp, reducing its barrier function and making it prone to irritation and flaking. Hot, humid conditions ramp up sebum production, which creates a perfect breeding ground forMalassezia yeast—fuelling dandruff in susceptible individuals. Seasonal changes themselves can throw the scalp’s microbiome off balance, leading to flare- ups during transitions like autumn and spring. Airborne pollutants like particulate matter,


smoke, and ozone can cause oxidative stress on the scalp, irritating skin cells and disrupting the


October 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE


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