84 HAIR CARE
14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0
Copper Present After Treatment AC Det’Ox Hair *
* * ∧
10 0
-10 -20 -30 -40 -50 -60 -70 -80
Untreated control Heavy metal control
Base Shampoo and Conditioner
Det’Ox Hair 2.0% AC
Figure 1: Copper Present on 2B-Wavy Brunette Hair After Treatment. * indicates significance (p ≤ 0.05) compared to Untreated Control. ∧ indicates significance (p ≤ 0.05) compared to Heavy Metal Control
residual metal ions present in hard water. When copper catalyses this reaction, highly reactive hydroxyl radicals are generated. Although short- lived, these radicals are extremely aggressive, attacking keratin proteins and cuticle lipids. Over time, this process leads to increased porosity, loss of tensile strength, dryness, and unwanted colour shifts commonly associated with metal buildup. In nature, plants have evolved highly
effective strategies to survive in metal-stressed environments through a process known as phytoremediation. Certain plant species can absorb, sequester, or detoxify heavy metals from contaminated soil and water, reducing metal mobility and limiting oxidative damage within their tissues.7 This resilience is driven by coordinated
antioxidant systems, metal-binding compounds, and enzymatic pathways that function together as a self-regulating defence network. Rather than relying on a single mechanism, phytoremediation reflects a holistic, nature-designed approach to managing metal stress in a sustainable way. This same logic offers a powerful blueprint for modern hair care. Through biomimetic chelation, formulations can borrow from nature’s playbook, using metal-binding strategies to render ions chemically inactive before they trigger oxidative damage. By addressing metal stress at its source, chelation helps protect the hair fibre, supporting cuticle integrity, shine, hydration, and long-term colour stability.
The role of kale Kale has been studied for its phytoremediation capacity, particularly in soils contaminated with lead and cadmium in urban and industrial environments.7
levels of vitamin C. This combination enables kale to tolerate and manage metal burden, making it a relevant botanical model for chelation-based hair protection. Inspired by phytoremediation, kale was
fermented with yeast to create an ingredient designed to reduce metal ion deposition on hair while simultaneously delivering antioxidant protection. Kale has been found to naturally contain ascorbic acid, or vitamin C, a well- established antioxidant that can help protect hair from oxidative stress. Metals can generate reactive oxygen species that damage hair proteins, surface lipids, and colour integrity. By reducing these reactive species, vitamin C can help to preserve hair structure, minimize discoloration, and prevent metal-induced dullness while enhancing shine. When kale is fermented with Saccharomyces
cerevisiae, these protective effects can be further enhanced through the enhanced synthesis bioactive compounds, including alpha-lipoic acid. Alpha-lipoic acid is a potent antioxidant with metal-chelating properties that can interact with heavy metals, reducing their reactivity and limiting their ability to catalyse oxidative damage. In addition to neutralizing metal-driven
free radicals, alpha-lipoic acid can support the regeneration of antioxidants such as vitamin C, reinforcing protection of keratin and cuticular lipids. These mechanisms illustrate how the phytoremediation-inspired, yeast-fermented kale ingredient works to manage metal exposure on hair while reinforcing antioxidant defence.
Under metal stress, kale activates
defence mechanisms that include metal sequestration and strong antioxidant responses, supported by enzymes such as superoxide dismutase and catalase, as well as naturally high
PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE October 2026
Putting it to the test To evaluate copper removal at the fibre level, copper-exposed human hair tresses were analysed using Inductively Coupled Plasma– Optical Emission Spectroscopy (ICP-OES), a sensitive analytical technique for quantifying trace metals.
In this study, virgin human hair tresses were
intentionally exposed to a copper-containing solution and then washed with different cosmetic formulations to assess metal removal. Copper levels remaining on the hair fibre were quantified after treatment, allowing direct comparison of chelating performance between formulations. Three virgin 2B wavy brunette hair tresses, classified according to the Andre Walker Hair Typing System, were selected to provide an untreated, unbleached, and uncoloured hair sample, minimizing effects from prior chemical processing. After exposure to a 13 ppm copper solution,
one tress was rinsed with water to serve as a heavy metal control, one was washed with a base shampoo and conditioner, and one was washed with the same base formulation containing 2% fermented kale ingredient. An untreated tress was maintained as a baseline control. All four tresses were subsequently subjected
to sulfuric acid and nitric acid digestion to generate liquid extracts suitable for analysis. These extracts were nebulized into an inductively coupled plasma, and elemental concentrations were determined based on emitted optical signals during ionization. Copper deposition was determined by
subtracting the copper content of the Untreated Control tress from each sample. Percent copper removed from hair was calculated using the following equation:
Percent Copper Removed (%)
Copper =
Deposited Sample
= Copper
Deposited Heavy Metal Control
Copper Deposited Heavy Metal Control Three independent experiments were
conducted. Extracts from each hair tress were analysed in duplicate, and mean values were calculated. Group comparisons were performed
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Copper (ppm)
Percent Change (%)
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