MARINE INGREDIENTS 63
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Control Collagen 1 ** **
500 450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100 50 0
Elastin
Hyaluronic acid
Figure 4: Effect of xPL (%) on extracellular matrix (ECM) components xPL has a beneficial effect on the production
of the extra cellular matrix (ECM) components (Figure 4): increasing collagen 1 (+40%), elastin (+45%) and hyaluronic acid (+75%). These essential extracellular matrix components support skin firmness, elasticity and hydration, helping maintain a stronger and healthier skin structure.
Reducing pigmentation Autophagy is also involved in the regulation of skin pigmentation by inducing the synthesis of melanin that contributes to skin colouration. Increasing the autophagic activity will accelerate the renewal of melanosomes, the organelles that produce melanin, therefore reducing the accumulation of melanin in the skin,7
and depigmenting the skin. We demonstrated the effect of xPL on
melanogenesis in vitro using a model of B16 murine melanocytes grown on a monolayer (Figure 5). Melanin release was measured after 72 hours of xPL application (with kojic acid used as a positive control at 1 mM). xPL exhibits a highly significant depigmenting activity of -17% at 1.8%.
Reducing inflammatory The soothing effect of xPL was demonstrated in
2500 2000 1500 1000 500 0 /
Untreated control
/
Untreated control
1µM
Positive control
1.8% xPL
with stress*
Figure 6: Effect of xPL on VEGF release in NHK cells (* stress induced with sorbitol)
www.personalcaremagazine.com ** p=0.06.1 *** Control
**
**
***
Kojic acid 1mM
1.8 % of xPL Figure 5: Effect of xPL on melanin release in B16 murine melanocytes
vitro using a model of NHK cells submitted to the stress induced by sorbitol, which mimics the osmotic stress conditions. In these conditions, NHK cells released pro-inflammatory cytokines such as the Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor (VEGF) and the Interleukin 8 (IL8). xPL was applied preventively during 24 hours, then applied again during 24 hours while the cells are stressed with sorbitol.
IL8 has been reported to be a potent
chemotactic and pro-inflammatory cytokine in the skin, produced by keratinocytes, neutrophils, and other cells. It drives neutrophil recruitment and influences keratinocyte functions. IL-8 is involved in UVB-induced inflammation and is also implicated in psoriasis. We found an interesting effect of our extract: xPL decreased significantly the release of IL8 by -22%, reducing the inflammatory conditions (Figure 7). Thus, the enhanced cellular performance
induced by xPL extends beyond regeneration. Additional in vitro studies demonstrated a depigmenting activity through reduced melanin production, together with decreased release of VEGF and IL-8, which are biomarkers associated with inflammation, vascular response and skin
3500 3000 2500 2000 1500 1000 500 0
/
Untreated control
Clinical study design Study conditions The panel consisted of 20 Caucasian females, ranging in age from 35 to 55 years old, with a dull and uneven complexion. A basic formula containing 2% of xPL was applied twice daily (in morning and evening) by the volunteers for 28 days. A comparison was performed between D28 and D0.
Instrumental assessments Skin radiance was assessed using a spectrophotometer/colorimeter CM-700D (Konica-Minolta) to measure the gloss parameter. The gloss parameter measures how well a surface reflects light in a mirror-like (specular) direction,
stress. These complementary activities further support healthier, more resilient skin. VEGF is a major regulator of vascular
development,8 and is involved in the inflammatory
process. It plays an important role in rosacea, which provokes facial redness. In our model, xPL decreased the release of VEGF by -36% (Figure 6), thereby attenuating skin redness and promoting a healthier and more harmonious facial tone.
6
*** * ***
/
Untreated control
1µM
Positive control
1.8% xPL
with stress*
Figure 7: Effect of xPL on IL-8 release in NHK cells (* stress induced by sorbitol)
October 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
[VEGF] (µg/mL/mg prot)
[IL8] (µg/mL/mg prot)
Melanin released (µg/mL/mg prot.)
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