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TESTING 107


be saved alongside the measurement data, enabling visual verification of the test site. This is particularly useful in longitudinal studies where consistency across time points is critical. The accompanying skin analysis software


captures and processes a wide range of parameters, including melanin concentration, haemoglobin levels, and skin tone classification. These metrics are displayed in customizable formats—such as graphs, lists, and CSV exports— making it easy to interpret and share results across teams. Wireless connectivity and intuitive interfaces


further enhance usability, allowing for one- handed operation and flexible positioning. Whether in a lab, clinical setting, or field study, these tools provide a stress-free workflow that supports rapid, scalable testing without compromising accuracy. Together, these technologies represent a


significant leap forward in cosmetic science. They empower researchers to move beyond subjective impressions and into a realm of data-driven decision-making, where every claim is backed by measurable evidence.


Key skin parameters in anti-ageing research In addition to these core parameters, researchers may also examine secondary indicators such as skin hydration, elasticity, and surface texture using complementary technologies. While not captured by colorimetric devices, these factors contribute to a holistic understanding of skin health and can be integrated into broader efficacy studies. Anti-ageing formulations often target subtle


yet impactful changes in skin appearance— brightness, redness, and overall tone uniformity. To evaluate these effects with scientific rigor, cosmetic researchers rely on a set of quantifiable


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skin parameters that reflect underlying biological processes. These metrics not only help validate product claims but also offer insights into how ingredients interact with the skin over time.


Melanin concentration Melanin plays a central role in skin pigmentation. Products designed to brighten or even out skin tone often aim to reduce melanin levels in targeted areas. By measuring melanin concentration objectively, researchers can assess the efficacy of ingredients, such as niacinamide, vitamin C, or liquorice root extract. A reduction in melanin values over time


can indicate successful pigment modulation, supporting claims related to radiance and clarity. The skin analysis software calculates the melanin index using spectral reflectance data captured by the spectrophotometer. This enables precise tracking of pigmentation changes across treatment intervals, helping researchers monitor progress and assess product performance with confidence.


Haemoglobin levels Haemoglobin, the oxygen-carrying component of blood, influences skin redness and vascular visibility. Anti-ageing products that promise to reduce redness or improve skin calmness must demonstrate a measurable decrease in haemoglobin-related coloration. This is particularly relevant for formulations containing anti-inflammatory agents or soothing botanicals. The software quantifies both total


haemoglobin and oxygen saturation (Hb SO2 Index), helping researchers distinguish between temporary irritation and long-term improvement.


Individual typology angle (ITA°) ITA° is a calculated value that classifies skin tone


based on chromatic coordinates. It provides a standardized way to describe skin colour, making it easier to compare results across subjects and studies. ITA° is especially useful in evaluating tone-evening products, as it reflects shifts in skin brightness and hue. A higher ITA° value typically corresponds to lighter, more uniform skin tone—an important marker in anti-ageing research. The skin analysis software displays melanin,


haemoglobin, and ITA° values in graphical form, allowing researchers to visualize skin tone distribution and monitor changes over time. The resulting data aligns with international standards, including ISO 24442 and ISO 24444:2019.


From lab to launch – supporting claims with data Furthermore, the ability to visualize trends over time—such as progressive improvements in skin tone or reductions in redness—adds depth to efficacy claims. These visualizations can be used in presentations, publications, and consumer education materials to illustrate the tangible benefits of a product in a scientifically compelling way. In the competitive world of personal care,


the journey from formulation to product launch hinges on more than just innovation—it requires proof. As consumers and regulators alike demand transparency, cosmetic brands must substantiate their claims with data that is both credible and communicable. This is where objective skin evaluation technologies play a pivotal role. By capturing quantifiable metrics such as


melanin concentration, haemoglobin levels, and skin tone classification, researchers can build a compelling evidence base for product efficacy. These values are not only precise but also easy to interpret, thanks to customizable outputs like graphical visualizations, tabular summaries, and


October 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE


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