MARINE INGREDIENTS 65
in the alga. As an osmolyte, it plays a crucial role in
osmotic homeostasis under hyper- or hypo- saline stress, helping the alga adapt to the coastal environment changes due to the tides. Prior to our studies, digeneaside was found to be an immunostimulant. Using a bioinspired approach focused on homeostasis, we tested an extract concentrated in digeneaside using autophagy and mitophagy models, both of which are mechanisms related to cell homeostasis and healthy longevity. We demonstrated that xPL, an extract from
Polysiphonia lanosa with a specific content of digeneaside increases autophagy and boosts the cell energy via mitophagy. The impact on skin structure and quality was demonstrated by assessing the production of important biomarkers of collagen I, elastin and hyaluronic acid. Furthermore, we also observed a
depigmenting effect that is certainly related to the autophagy process which renews the melanosomes. Two pro-inflammatory biomarkers are decreased: VEGF and IL8. Interestingly, VEGF is a key regulator of blood vessel appearance. Its inhibition, alongside that of IL8 attenuates facial skin redness. All of the results are consistent with the xPL mechanism of action on skin radiance and healthy appearance. Furthermore, xPL at 2% has additional benefits on signs of ageing. 100% of the panel observed an improvement in the overall skin appearance. xPL represents a groundbreaking marine-derived active ingredient that combines cellular regeneration, healthy longevity, and skin-brightening properties through a multi-target mechanism. By stimulating autophagy, mitophagy, and ATP
production, it enhances cellular resilience against environmental stress. Its ability to boost collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid productions while reducing melanin synthesis and inflammatory markers translates into clinically proven improvements in radiance (+31.2%), evenness (+5.8%), and overall skin health (100% volunteer satisfaction). As a sustainable, vegan, and COSMOS-
approved ingredient, xPL is a valuable addition to well-ageing and brightening cosmetic formulations, offering holistic skin rejuvenation without compromising ethical or environmental standards. Future research could explore synergistic combinations – like with vitamin C or peptides - and long-term effects to further optimize its cosmetic applications.
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References 1. Berthou C, Bondu S, Deslandes E et al. Mannosylglycerate et ses derives pour utilisation en tant qu’agent immunostimulant [Patent filed by Centre Hospitalier Regional et Universitaire de Brest, Univerdite de Bretagne Occidentale]. WO2015197652A1. 2015
2. López-Otín C, Blasco MA, Partridge L, Serrano M, Kroemer G. The hallmarks of aging. Cell. 2013; Jun 6;153(6):1194-217
3. Rubinsztein DC, Mariño G, Kroemer G. Autophagy and aging. Cell. 2011; Sep
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Figure 10: Clinical photographs demonstrating the beneficial effects of xPL on colour spots and radiance
2;146(5):682-95
4. Schiavi A, Torgovnick A, Kell A et al. Autophagy induction extends lifespan and reduces lipid content in response to frataxin silencing in C. elegans. Exp Gerontol. 2013 Feb;48(2):191-201
5. Sreedhar A, Aguilera-Aguirre L, Singh KK. Mitochondria in skin health, aging, and disease. Cell Death Dis. 2020 Jun 9;11(6):444
6. Eckhart L, Tschachler E, Gruber F. Autophagic
Control of Skin Aging. Front Cell Dev Biol. 2019; Jul 30;7:143
7. Kovacs D, Cardinali G, Picardo M, Bastonini E. Shining Light on Autophagy in Skin Pigmentation and Pigmentary Disorders. Cells. 2022; Sep 26;11(19):2999
8. Bautch VL. VEGF-directed blood vessel patterning: from cells to organism. Cold Spring Harb Perspect Med. 2012; Sep 1;2(9):a006452
October 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
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