90 HAIR CARE ■ AMP ■ AAA ■ 3AB ■ TEA
100 80 60 40 20 0
0 5 10 Hours
Figure 2: High humidity curl retention over time for high-VOC hairspray formulation
W=
A * B * C * D 1000
W = Parts by weight of base (g), A = Parts by
weight of resin (g), B = Acidity of resin (mEq/g), C = Equivalent weight of base, D = degree of neutralization European dark-brown hair tresses were used
to assess curl retention performance of hairspray solutions. Tresses were cleaned, dried and dosed with approximately 1g of neutralized polymer solution. These were curled on to a hair curling rod, allowed to dry, and carefully removed from the rods. Tresses were set and monitored in a humidity
chamber at 30°C and 90% humidity over 24 hours. Uncurled length of tress was recorded over time. Two sets of tresses were prepared in this manner, one with high VOC hairspray solution (Figure 2) containing neutralized polymers, and second with lower VOC hairspray solution (Figure 3) with neutralized polymers. Hold is the single most important performance
requirement for hairsprays. In the laboratory this is evaluated at high humidity conditions of 90% relative humidity at 30°C. Changes in curl length are recorded over time, and curl retention is calculated as a percentage of starting uncurled full length of tress. While style hold is a defining feature of any
hairspray, other critical factors such as propellant compatibility and ability to be washed off hair to prevent polymer build-up are equally important
AMP AAA 15 20
100 80 60 40 20 0
■ AMP ■ AAA ■ 3AB ■ TEA
0
5
10 Hours
Figure 3: High humidity curl retention over time for low-VOC hairspray formulation
to achieving a well-balanced formulation. Volatile organic compound regulations often influence the selection of propellants. The primary purpose of propellent is to provide
pressure needed to dispense the product. When the propellant is soluble in the hairspray concentrate, it helps the liquid stream break up more efficiently, resulting in a finer, more uniform spray. Figure 4 shows laboratory test results for
high-VOC hairspray formulation with pentane as a substitute for the alkane propellants. Pentane was selected over typical blends of propane, butane, or isobutane because it is liquid at room temperature and can be tested at atmospheric pressure. The poor solubility and compatibility of the triethanolamine-neutralized resin is evident from the polymer precipitate seen at the bottom of the bottle. To prevent build-up, hairspray must be easily
removed upon shampooing; this is especially important for frequent hairspray users. Polymer solubility upon neutralization is important for its removal with shampoo. Excessive resin build-up can leave hair feeling coated and unclean, leading to a negative consumer experience. Polymer build-up was evaluated by subjecting
hair tresses to ten repeated hairspray applications and wash off cycles. The results shown in Figure 5 demonstrate that polymers neutralized with AAA and 3AB exhibit excellent washability, whereas hairsprays neutralized with TEA show visible polymer accumulation due to insufficient shampoo removal.
3AB TEA AMP Steel plated cans are a popular choice
as hairspray packaging, although aluminium alternatives are increasingly being adopted in certain applications. When formulating low-VOC systems that contain water, formulators must carefully consider the potential for steel can corrosion, which can occur in both the liquid and vapor phases. The choice of neutralizer plays an important
role in mitigating this risk. Both AAA and 3AB have demonstrated excellent corrosion protection in both phases, as shown in Figure 6 by test coupons immersed in neutralized polymer solutions over extended time periods. Both AAA and 3AB deliver outstanding
performance as neutralizers in aerosol hairspray formulations across key parameters — including high-humidity curl retention, propellant compatibility, and resin washability/build-up. Their optimized balance of hydrophobic and hydrophilic character, combined with efficient yet controlled neutralization of fixative polymers, enables superior film formation and formulation stability. Together, these properties make AAA and 3AB
the next generation of multifunctional neutralizers, consistently outperform conventional alternatives, offering a robust combination of performance and formulation versatility.
New generation alkalizers for hair colour formulations Hair colourants remain one of the most popular segments of haircare, with multiple methods
AAA 3AB TEA
15
20
Figure 4: Compatibility testing with pentane propellant with high-VOC hairspray PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE October 2026
Figure 5: Comparison of polymer build-up upon repeated hairspray use
www.personalcaremagazine.com
% Curl Retention
% Curl Retention
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