HAIR CARE 89
Next-gen amino alcohols as multifunctional alkalizers
Mrunalini Dhamdhere - Advancion
Hair and hairstyle play a key role in expressing individuality, making both style and colour important to consumers. As market trends and regulatory landscapes continue to evolve, haircare product innovation must advance in parallel. Advancion recently developed two new-
to-the-world multifunctional amino alcohols – Elevance™ Ultra (INCI: Amino Methylisobutanol) and Elevance™ Elite Bio65 (INCI: 3-Amino-2- Butanol), hereafter referred to, respectively, as AAA and 3AB. These two new-to-market multifunctional
ingredients deliver advanced neutralizing and alkalizing functionality along with added formulation benefits. In general, the term neutralizer applies when acidic components are balanced, while alkalizer refers to an additive used to raise the formulation’s pH, making it more basic. AAA and 3AB are formulated to meet the highest standards of safety and regulatory compliance for use in personal care applications. These high-purity multifunctional additives comply with the product specifications established by global cosmetic regulations, including those outlined by the United States FDA, the European Union’s Cosmetic Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009, and other major international frameworks. These products are supported by
comprehensive technical and regulatory documentation, including safety data, ingredient listings, and purity specifications. With 100% traceable raw materials and consistent, high- quality manufacturing, both grades provide formulators with reliable options for developing safe, compliant, and globally acceptable beauty
AMP AAA
and personal care products. Hair styling/fixative products are formulated in
a wide range of formats such as aerosol hairspray, pump hairspray, gels, and pomades. These products contain a fixative polymer to deliver hold for the desired style. For aerosol hairsprays, polymer fixatives are formulated in either a solvent or solvent/water system and packaged with propellants. The choice of the solvent and propellants
strongly influences key product attributes such as stiffness, durability, feel, ease of combing and washability. Film forming properties of hair fixative resins containing carboxylic acid groups may be altered by varying the degree of neutralization and the neutralizer choice.
3AB TEA
These resins are widely used in aerosol
hairsprays for their ability to provide long-lasting hold, even in high humidity. Properly-neutralized polymer films provide excellent hold as well as washability from hair, thus providing clean feel to hair even with repeated use of hairspray. Traditionally, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol
(AMP) has been the preferred neutralizer in aerosol hairsprays. The data below demonstrates how AAA and 3AB perform as alternative neutralizers for hair fixatives in aerosol hairspray formulations.
Performance testing of aerosol hairspray formulations using AAA and 3AB as neutralizers Hairspray solutions were prepared with 2:3 ratio by weight of Amphomer® and Resyn™ 28-2930LVOC polymers (Nouryon) at 3% polymer level. Two types of formulations were evaluated. The
first was a high-VOC (volatile organic compound) formulation using ethanol solution of the above polymers (Figure 1), general representation of high-VOC formulations used in European products. The second was a low-VOC formulation using
ethanol/water solution of above-mentioned polymers, general representation of products compliant with 50% VOC regulation in the United States.
The amount of neutralizer required is Figure 1: High-VOC hairspray concentrate. Clear solution indicates good solubility of neutralized polymers
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calculated based on the acidity of the polymer using the following equation.1 neutralized to 100% for testing.
Polymers were October 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
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