56 COLOUR COSMETICS
How microfibrillated cellulose enhances beauty formulations
Florentine Hilty-Vancura – Weidmann Fiber Technology Serena Zanella, Rebecca Felten - Laboratorio Cosmpolita
As the demand for naturally derived and multifunctional ingredients continues to grow, formulators need sustainable solutions that deliver both technical performance and formulation versatility. This trend is reflected in the rapid expansion of the natural and organic cosmetics market, which is projected to grow from $41.65 billion in 2024 to approximately $103.23 billion by 2034, representing a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 9.5%.1 Driven by consumer expectations for safe,
environmentally friendly, and sustainable cosmetic products, manufacturers are seeking innovative bio-based ingredients that meet both performance and sustainability requirements. Celova® from Weidmann Fiber Technology is a natural microfibrillated cellulose (MFC) derived from sustainably sourced eucalyptus wood. Produced through a purely mechanical process, it is a naturally derived multifunctional ingredient for use in personal care formulations to enhance pigment dispersion and colour intensity. This article examines the structure of
microfibrillated cellulose, its effect on pigment dispersion, and its performance in cosmetic formulations.
Microfibrillated cellulose: structure and functionality Cellulose from wood consists of a network of fibrils held together by hydrogen bonds. During the microfibrillation process, these hydrogen bonds are broken, allowing water molecules to intercalate between the fibrils and prevent them from re-bonding. The result is a stable, highly fibrillated structure with a large surface area and high water-binding capacity. This fibrillar network contributes to texture
enhancement, improved sensory properties, and water retention. In addition, it supports pigment distribution, making it suitable for skin care, sun care, and colour cosmetic applications.
Pigment dispersion and colour performance Pigment dispersion is critical in the development of colour cosmetic formulations, as it directly influences colour uniformity, coverage, optical appearance, and long-term product stability. Due to their relatively high density and
strong tendency to agglomerate, inorganic pigments and mineral fillers can be difficult to disperse and stabilize uniformly within a
PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE October 2026
Figure 1: Three-dimensional fibrillar network formed by mechanically produced microfibrillated cellulose
formulation. Inadequate dispersion may lead to pigment sedimentation, agglomeration, colour inconsistency, reduced colour intensity, and poor application performance. Microfibrillated cellulose (MFC) contributes to
pigment stabilization through a unique three- dimensional fibrillar network formed within the aqueous phase. This network increases the formulation’s low-shear viscosity and provides a yield stress that restricts pigment mobility, thereby reducing sedimentation during storage. At the same time, the high specific surface area
of the cellulose fibrils supports the separation of pigment particles and helps to minimize re- agglomeration after dispersion. The resulting improvement in dispersion
stability ensures that pigments remain homogeneously distributed throughout the formulation, maintaining consistent optical properties over time. A more uniform pigment distribution enhances colour development
by reducing localized pigment concentration differences and improving light interaction with pigment particles. Consequently, formulations exhibit greater
colour intensity, improved coverage, enhanced gloss, and a more homogeneous appearance while maintaining excellent storage stability. Beyond improving the visual appearance of
decorative cosmetics, enhanced dispersion stability also contributes to more consistent manufacturing processes, reproducible product quality, and reliable performance throughout the product’s shelf life.
Experimental evaluation of pigment dispersion stability A study was conducted to investigate the ability of MFC to stabilize dispersed particles under accelerated sedimentation conditions using centrifugation. Aqueous dispersions containing iron oxide (Fe2
O3 ) particles with a median particle
size of approximately 5 µm were prepared. Iron oxide was selected as a representative inorganic pigment due to its relatively high density and its widespread use in colour cosmetic formulations. The dispersions contained combinations of 1–3
wt% MFC and 0.5–2 wt% iron oxide. Dispersion stability was evaluated by centrifugation for five minutes at increasing relative centrifugal forces (RCF, ×g), expressed as multiples of standard gravitational acceleration (g), providing an accelerated assessment of the fibrillar network resistance to particle sedimentation. The results demonstrate a clear concentration-
dependent improvement in dispersion stability with increasing MFC concentration. At 1 wt% MFC, the
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