HAIR CARE 91 Control AAA 3AB TEA
TABLE 1: DARK BROWN DEMI-PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR FORMULATION
INCI Name A1 Water
Disodium EDTA Ascorbic Acid Glycerin
Sodium Laureth Sulfate Sodium Lauryl Sulfate Sodium Sulfite Sodium Sulfate
A2
Figure 6: Hairspray aerosol can coupon corrosion study performed over 15 months indicates the enhanced liquid (bottom) and vapor phase (top) corrosion protection provided by AAA and 3AB compared to TEA
B
available to alter natural hair colour, each with distinct requirements and outcomes. Changing hair colour involves either removing natural melanin, adding pigments, or both to achieve the desired shade. Hair colourant products are typically classified
by how long the colour lasts. Demi-permanent hair colourant formulations (see Table 1) provide a subtler change than permanent colour, making it ideal for covering greys, refreshing faded mid- lengths and ends, or enhancing overall tone. Its versatility and gentle results contribute to its strong consumer appeal. Colour development studies were conducted with a mixture of 75% white and 25% dark hair tresses, treated for 20 min with a mixture of cream and 10 volume hydrogen peroxide at a weight ratio of 1:2. Tresses were rinsed, dried and measured for colour change. Colour retention was assessed on such
tresses by washing them repeatedly 10 times, and colour change was noted at the end. Colour change and retention performance for the demi- permanent hair colourant formulations using AAA and 3AB were compared to a formulation using monoethanolamine (MEA) alkalizer at 5 wt%.
Untreated 75% grey hair MEA
3AB AAA
Blending of greys was evaluated visually as well as using the L*a*b* colour space. Colour development and retention tests
confirmed that demi-permanent hair colourants formulated with AAA and 3AB deliver excellent colour performance, long-lasting results, and effective grey coverage. These new alkalizers provide the hair colourant industry with a compelling combination of high performance, formulation versatility, ease of use, and regulatory compliance, along with a safer profile that supports scalp comfort. Colour development and retention tests confirm that demi-permanent hair colourants formulated with AAA and 3AB deliver excellent colour performance, long-lasting results, and effective grey coverage, while also supporting scalp comfort (Figure 8). Unlike MEA, which has traditionally been used in hair colour formulations and can be associated with scalp sensitivity, irritation, and additional hazard concerns related to respiratory and aquatic toxicity, AAA and 3AB provide a gentler profile without compromising performance. Their balanced hydrophilic/hydrophobic character and optimized neutralization enhance both efficacy and mildness, making these next-generation alkalizers
Commercial DPHC 5N shade
MEA
Toluene-2,5-diamine Sulfate (TDS)
m-Aminophenol (MAP) 2-Methylresorcinol (2MR) Resorcinol (RL) Cetearyl Alcohol Laureth-3
Glyceryl Stearate SE 1-Tetradecanol Glyceryl Stearate
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Sorbitan Laurate
C Methylisothiazolinone / Caprylyl Glycol
D Alkalizer %
QS 0.3 0.3 0.2 4.0 0.8 0.4 1.0
1.8
0.4 0.5 0.4
15.0 4.5 1.5 1.0
0.2 0.2 0.1 1.0
5.0
gentler options that combine high performance, formulation versatility, and consumer-friendly safety.
New alkalizers as alternatives to ammonia in permanent hair colour formulations Oxidative hair dyeing typically combines hair dyes, hydrogen peroxide and an alkalizer to create high alkaline environment, pH 9 to 11, necessary for effective colour change. Traditionally, ammonia has served as the alkalizer, but its characteristic odour is noticeable to consumers. In recent years, the demand for “ammonia-free” claims has grown, driven by the broader “skinification” trend that
3AB AAA
Commercial DPHC 5N shade
Alkalizer
MEA 3AB AAA
Market 5N
∆E vs. untreated 23.5 23.0 23.0 26.5
L
29.0 28.8 29.1
26.9
a
5.5 4.9 4.7 5.3
Figure 7: Colour development for demi-permanent hair colourant formulations using AAA and 3AB
www.personalcaremagazine.com
b
5.7 5.7 6.1 5.7
Alkalizer
MEA 3AB AAA
Market 5N
∆E Initial vs. 10 washes 3.0 2.7 2.0 2.8
Figure 8: Comparison of colour retention of demi-permanent dark brown hair colourant formulas using various alkalizers
October 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
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