MARINE INGREDIENTS
Digeneaside: a lesson in resilience from nature
Quoc-Tuan Do, Franck Himbert, Philippe Bernard - Laboratoire Greenpharma Francine Joly - Sephra Pharma
ABSTRACT
Digeneaside is a natural carbohydrate found in red algae, where it serves as a vital osmoregulator, allowing these organisms to adapt to salinity fluctuations while maintaining cellular homeostasis. By biomimicry, digeneaside was tested on skin models: it helps preserve a balanced cellular environment, promoting longevity and health. The mechanisms behind these effects, supported by in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo evidence, involve key biological processes: firstly, the enhancement of autophagy and mitophagy (cellular cleanup and regeneration); and, secondly, anti-inflammatory action (shielding cells from oxidative stress and environmental damage)
The skin is the body’s largest and most exposed organ, constantly subjected to extrinsic stressors (UV radiation, pollution, temperature fluctuations, microbial challenges) and intrinsic ageing processes. Maintaining cellular and tissue homeostasis—the stable equilibrium of biological functions—is critical for skin health, resilience, and youthful appearance. Autophagy and mitophagy, two highly
conserved cellular degradation pathways, play a pivotal role in preserving this homeostasis. However, age-associated declines in these processes contribute to skin deterioration, manifesting as wrinkles, loss of elasticity, uneven pigmentation, and impaired barrier function. Marine organisms, particularly macroalgae,
are a rich source of bioactive compounds with cosmetic potential owing to their adaptation to extreme environmental conditions, such as salinity fluctuations, UV exposure, and temperature variations. Polysiphonia lanosa (L.)
T.A.Chr., is a red
alga native to the Atlantic coasts of Europe. It is an epiphyte that grows on the brown alga Ascophyllum nodosum (L.) Le Jol. It is known as the ‘sea truffle’ because its flavour resembles that of the white truffle. It is favoured by Scandinavian chefs for its
exquisite taste when dried. Its price? €600/ kg ($695) Beyond its gastronomic uses, it also exhibits interesting effects on skin. Polysiphonia lanosa synthesizes digeneaside, an osmolyte that enables osmotic homeostasis
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under hyper- or hypo-saline stress allowing the alga to adapt to harsh coastal conditions influenced by tidal fluctuations. This compound, also known as 3-hydroxy-
2-(α-D-mannopyranosyloxy)-propanoic acid, features a mannose scaffold with an acidic functional group (Figure 1). It has been patented for its immunostimulatory effect as it increases IFN-γ production,1
thereby maintaining cells in a
‘state of alert’. What are its beneficial effects on skin? Using
a bioinspired approach to skin homeostasis, we evaluated the molecule’s contributions to autophagy and mitophagy—both processes linked to homeostasis and to the management of environmental stress (the exposome). From the alga Polysiphonia lanosa, we
optimised an extraction process to obtain an extract enriched in digeneaside, namely xPL. The extract has a commercial name of Algosoft® (INCI name: Aqua, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polysiphonia Lanosa Extract). Hereafter, we will report the studies on this specific xPL extract.
Rationale: autophagy and mitophagy in cutaneous ageing Healthy-looking skin depends on the ability of skin cells to continuously renew themselves. As we age and face daily environmental stress, this renewal process becomes less efficient. Damaged cellular components build up; energy production declines and skin gradually loses its ability to repair itself. xPL supports skin regeneration by
activating two key biological processes. Autophagy and mitophagy are two natural biological mechanisms that are strongly involved in ageing: ■ Autophagy (‘cell clean-up’) removes damaged proteins and cellular waste to keep skin cells healthy ■ Mitophagy (‘cell recharge’) replaces damaged mitochondria, restoring efficient energy production Autophagy is a mechanism that protects
cells from chronic degeneration by regenerating defective cell components and extends the lifespan by contributing to proteostasis, the process that controls the balanced and proper function of proteins. It also maintains mitochondrial homeostasis, ensuring that the energy machinery of cells remains in an optimum state.2 Autophagic flux decreases with age in many whereas its upregulation is associated
organs,3
with lifespan extension through mitochondrial adaptation to stress.4
Mitochondrial function plays
a major role in numerous cellular pathways from ATP (one of the cell energy molecules) production to nuclear gene expression and epigenetic alterations induced by environment stress. This mitochondrial function declines with age.
Recent articles have highlighted the importance of autophagy and mitophagy in the cutaneous cellular ageing related to both internal (age- related) and external (environmental stress) conditions.5,6 With cleaner cells and healthier mitochondria, skin cells generate more energy, repair themselves
October 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
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