FORMULATIONS 89
UVA in vitro (ISO 24 443): 19 Water-resistance in vivo (Colipa 2005): 61.2% (5 subjects) Photostability = 89% Critical wavelength = 378 nm UVA / PA++++ Suppliers 1 Lubrizol 2 Cargill 6 Technico-Flor
3 Gattefossé
HALLSTAR Fine-Tuning Cream
PHASE INGREDIENTS A
INCI NAME
Water (Aqua) (deionized) Glycerin
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate (37% active)
Eurol® WHT1 Glycerin, Water, Olea Europaea
(Olive) Leaf Extract, Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract Titanium Dioxide
B Olivem® Olivem®
HallBrite®
* 1000 Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate * VS Feel Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Palmitate, Sorbitan Oleate Butyloctyl Salicylate
BHB1 BRIGHT Oléoactif®1 Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed)
Seed Oil, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Althaea Officinalis Root Extract, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract
C Olivem® 2020G1 D E
Ethylhexyl Olivate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Hexylene Glycol
Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone
Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer [5 μm spheres] Dimethicone 2 cSt
1.00 1.00 1.50 5.00
Procedure Prepare phase A and homogenize, using a suitable dispersion unit (Silverson, Ultra Turrax) for 5 minutes, then heat phase A up to 80-85°C. Heat phase B to 75-80°C and add to phase A using a suitable dispersion unit (Silverson, Ultra Turrax). Cool down under stirring below 40°C. Add phase C, using a suitable dispersion unit (Silverson, Ultra Turrax) for 3 minutes. Add phase D, using a suitable dispersion unit (Silverson, Ultra Turrax) for 3 minutes. Prepare phase E, mixing with a spatula, then add phase E to phase ABCD using a suitable dispersion unit (Silverson, Ultra Turrax) for 2 minutes. Properties (25ºC)
Appearance: White, soft cream Viscosity (20 rpm, Brk, RV DV-II, T-D, after 24 hours at room temperature; mPa∙s): 20,000 – 25,000 pH (as is): 6.7 Suppliers 1 Hallstar
ICHIMARU PHARCOS Summer Smoothie
PHASE INGREDIENTS INCI NAME
A Demineralized waterAqua Glycerine 4810 Glycerin RheostylTM E-Cream
B NaOH February 2020 4 Hallstar
C Neossance®
Camellia Oil Decanox®
5 DSM Nutritional Products D Infraguard
(30% aqueous solution) C13-15 Alkane Hemisqualane
Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil MTS 50 Tocopherol (and) Glycine Soja Oil Frambuesa 955090 Parfum Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Pod
124-18-06Q % W/W
75.20 5.00 0.30
0.50
3.00 1.50 1.00
4.00 1.00
Extract/Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract (and) Helianthus Annuus (and) Sprout Extract (and) Propylene Glycol (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Aqua
Wamino-BonBon Molasses (and) Oryza Sativa Lees Extract 2.00 Sensicare®
C1000 Phenoxyethanol, (and) Glyceryl Laurate
“Azorubin 85% Aqua (and) C.I. 14720 E122
E Velvesil E-Gel PMF Emulsion
Silsoft E-Pearl PMF Emulsion
(1% aqueous solution) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone
Crosspolymer, (and) Dimethicone, Isohexadecane (and) Cetearyl Methicone
Polymethylsilsesquioxane (and)
Dimethicone (and) Isohexadecane (and) Cetearyl Methicone (and) PEG-40 Stearate (and) Steareth-2 (and) Steareth-21
Procedure Procedure: Place phase A under stirring. Add phase B to phase A to neutralise, then adjust pH to 6.8. Stir phase C until homogeneous, then add it to combined phase AB under high stirring until homogeneous. Stir phase D until homogeneous then add it to combined phase ABC and homogenise. Pre-mix phase E, then add it to combined phase ABCD and homogenise. Adjust pH to 6.7-6.8.
INNOVACOS Foundation
PHASE INGREDIENTS/INCI NAME A Water (Aqua) Glycerin
Magnesium Sulfate Disodium EDTA Preservative
B1 Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate - PolyAquolTM Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Magnesium Stearate
B2 Cyclomethicone
B3 CI 77891 (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane CI 77492 (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane CI 77491 (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane CI 77499 (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane
C Parfum
011.T11 % W/W
to 100.00 3.00
Acrylates/Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer 8.00 Aqua (and) Sodium Hydroxide 0.85 OS2
2.50 5.50 2.00
14.00 8.70 0.70 0.35 0.25 a.n.
Procedure Prepare phase B1 and warm it up to 75°C; Cool down to 50°C and add phase B2 to phase B1, under gentle stirring; Crush phase B3 at the mill and add it to phase B1+B2, under gentle stirring; Prepare phase A and warm it up to 50°C; Add phase A to phase B1+B2+B3 and homogenize for a few minutes; Cool down to 40°C and add phase C under gentle stirring. Properties Viscosity: after 24h Brk, RVDV-I Prime, Sp 92, 10 rpm: 20000 - 25000 cps
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE 3.00 3.00
1.00 1.00
8.00
5.00 0.40 0.70 2.00
FD 19-18-01B % W/W
up to 100.00 6.00 1.00 0.10 a.n.
6.00
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