SKIN MICROBIOME 35
Investigating the microbiome’s impact on skin
Mathias Gempeler, Volker Rosenberger, Michele Marchini – DSM, Switzerland
As a beauty concept, the skin microbiome is gaining traction. An increasing number of cosmetic products making specific reference to the microbiome or prebiotic and probiotic ingredients are being launched, and the latest scientific discoveries about skin microbiota point to considerable and original potential for the personal care industry. As with any new hot topic however, there are many questions that need to be answered. From a market perspective for example, how much do consumers currently understand about the bacteria on their skin and how interested are they in ‘microbiome-friendly’ skin care or products and microbiome claims in general? And from a science perspective, what are the most meaningful ways to investigate, measure and analyse the skin microbiome; and which aspects of the complex interactions between the skin and its flora are most relevant to the world of skin care?
Beauty consumers and the skin microbiome To find out more about the consumer response to microbiome related claims and products, DSM carried out a consumer market study, in conjunction with research experts Mintel, in December 2018. Qualitative analysis of 400 posts on social media found that the beauty industry is driving plenty of conversation about the skin microbiome. However, discussions with focus groups in China and the UK showed that consumer interest in and awareness of the topic is still low: 28% of consumers in China were aware of the skin microbiome and the potential benefits of cosmetic products with prebiotic and probiotic ingredients, and in the UK just 5% of consumers were familiar with the subject.
In the UK, consumers mainly understood
the word “microbiome” in terms of gut health and live dairy products. However, because they viewed this positively, they were receptive to the idea that ingredients which are beneficial to the gut could also be beneficial to the skin. Chinese consumers seemed to be more open to embracing the skin microbiome in its own right, with typical comments including: “Health is about
February 2020 Abstract
How, and to what extent, do certain bacteria in the skin microbiome influence skin conditions such as dryness or oiliness? DSM’s scientists have been investigating and for the first time, in a new, all-in-one, multicentre clinical study, they have demonstrated a link between changes in the composition of the skin microbiome and changes in physical skin conditions. Their study also found that treatment with specific, well- established skin care actives such as OXY 229 PF (Saccharomyces Lysate), Syn-Up® (Benzylsulfonyl-D-Seryl-Homophenylalanine Amidino-benzamide Acetate), and Alpaflor®
Alp® -Sebum (Epilobium Fleischeri Extract), resulted in beneficial effects in
normal, dry and oily skin conditions. These effects were associated with changes in levels of Cutibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus epidermidis and Corynebacterium kroppenstedtii bacteria in the skin microbiome.
17 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0
Day 0 +175%
+100%
Day 7
Day 28 Figure 1: Increase of S. epidermidis in dry skin in the cheek area after 7 and 28 days of treatment.
achieving a balance. Now that we know about the skin microbiome, of course keeping that in balance as well is important”. There is clearly an opportunity here for the beauty industry to educate consumers about the skin microbiome. The key will be to start from current levels of understanding and to provide clear and relatable information about what it is and why it is relevant to specific skin care concerns, types of product and how they work. In changing the narrative about skin bacteria however, care needs to be
taken: “I see the logic behind these products. However, I do not like when they over- criticize soaps and cleansers, it is excessive and makes me feel scolded”, was a view shared by both Chinese and Western consumers.
A science perspective: Skin microbiome or skin condition - which comes first?
Scientists have established a number of methodologies for identifying skin bacteria1,2
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Staphylococcus Epidermidis (%)
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