SKIN MICROBIOME 37
4.5 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0
Day 0
-65%
-62%
Day 7 Figure 4: Corynebacterium kroppenstedtii reduction on normal cheek skin after 7 and 28 days respectively.
The cosmetic active Benzylsulfonyl-D- Seryl-Homophenylalanine Amidino- benzamide Acetate is a synthetic dipeptide derivative which inhibits the serine proteases Plasmin and Urokinase to strengthen the skin barrier. As the graphs below show (Fig 1 and 2), in this study, scientists found that treatment with this active can fight against dry skin conditions by boosting Staphylococcus epidermidis and reducing Corynebacterium kroppenstedtii. Specifically, after 28 days of treatment, Staphylococcus epidermidis levels on the cheek increased by 175% and Corynebacterium kroppenstedtii on the cheek were reduced by 72% while TEWL measurements showed a 17% improvement in the skin barrier on the cheek.
Controling oiliness by down- regulation of sebum-and Cutibacterium acnes levels Cutibacterium acnes is one of the dominant bacteria in the facial microbiome. It reveals a lipophilic and anaerobic lifestyle and plays an important gate-keeping role in skin health. However, it can also have an influence on sebum production and some strains are associated with acne.8 Epilobium Fleischeri Extract has a high OenotheinB and flavonoids content. It has been proven to significantly inhibit 5-α- reductase, the key enzyme in sebum formation and in this new study, it was shown that it can also help control oily skin by down- regulating sebum- and Cutibacterium acnes levels. After 7 days of treatment, with Epilobium Fleischeri Extract, sebum levels on forehead skin were already reduced by 20% and remained at this level throughout the four-week trial (22% reduction at 28 days). Microbiome analysis meanwhile showed an 11% reduction in Cutibacterium acnes after one week, stabilising at 7% after 28 days.
February 2020
Reducing sebum and Corynebacterium kroppenstedtii to keep normal skin looking fresh Because Corynebacterium kroppenstedtii is associated with skin redness, keeping levels at a minimum could be beneficial to normal skin and maintaining a fresh complexion. The bioactive Saccharomyces lysate is
made from the extraordinary baker’s yeast strain VdH2 and contains powerful mitochondrial respiration activators. In DSM’s study, treatment with this ingredient was shown to reduce sebum levels on cheek skin by 5% after one week and 7% after 28 days while Corynebacterium kroppenstedtii levels were reduced by 65% after one week and still showed a reduction of 62% after 28 days.
Does the skin microbiome hold the key to beautiful looking skin? The skin microbiome is very diverse and its landscape still relatively unexplored. As more and more data becomes available in the coming weeks and months, a key focus will be to define standardised processes for research and analysis. This will require widening the range of skill sets traditionally called on, and input from multi-disciplinary teams, including microbiologists and biostatisticians. By investigating specific skin conditions in
relation to established physiological parameters such as sebum and TEWL, and in parallel with skin microbiome analysis, DSM’s study provides a model for conducting tests in a way that generates reliable and meaningful data. Moreover, its preliminary findings about the correlation between the composition of the skin microbiome and changes in normal, dry and oily skin, and the beneficial effects of its three actives, point to promising potential for next generation skin care.
As a new topic which is likely to be well- received by consumers through their
understanding of the gut microbiome, the skin microbiome offers a real opportunity for innovation in skin care. DSM is committed to staying at the forefront of understanding about this topic, by leading the way with new research and engaging with consumers, to develop original skin microbiome solutions.
PC
References 1 Ogai K, Nagase S, Mukai K, et al. A Comparison of
Techniques for Collecting Skin Microbiome Samples: Swabbing Versus Tape-Stripping, Frontiers in Microbiology 2018; 9: 2812
2 Knight R, Vrbanac A, Taylor BC, et al. Best practices for analysing microbiomes, Nature Reviews Microbiology 2018; 16; 410-422
3 Prescott SL, Larcombe D, Logan A C, et al. The skin microbiome: impact of modern environments on skin ecology, barrier integrity, and systemic immune programming, World Allergy Organization Journal 2017; 10:29
4 Byrd AL, Belkaid Y and Segre JA. The human skin microbiome, Nature Reviews Microbiology 2018; 16: March 143-155
5 Nodake Y, Matsumoto S, Miura R, et al. Pilot study on novel skin care method by augmentation with Staphylococcus epidermidis, an autologous skin microbe – A blinded randomized clinical trial, Journal of Dermatological Science 2015;79: 119–126
6 Stacy A, Belkaid Y. Microbial guardians of skin health, Science 2019; 363: 6424: 227-228.
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http://www.globalengage.co.uk/ microbiome/docs/Malik.pdf download 20.06.2019 Kausar M, The Cinco De Mayo Study Temporal Changes in the Facial Skin Microbiome - A One- Year Longitudinal Study in Normal Healthy Men and Women, Amway Corporation, Ada, Michigan October 29, 2018
8 Dreno B, Pecastaings S, Corvec S., Veraldi S, Khammari A, Roques C. Cutibacterium acnes (Propionibacterium acnes) and acne vulgaris: a brief look at the latest updates, JEADV2018; 32 (Suppl. 2):5–14
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Day 28
Corynebacterium Kroppenstedtii (%)
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