12 SCC MEETING
“Social media promotes what is popular, not what is true,” stated Caulfield. It serves to polarise the discourse and promotes confirmation bias within a platform completely owned by celebrities. The volume of scientific discourse within social media is almost undetectable. In his conclusion, Caulfield said
improving scientific literacy and critical thinking skills were crucial, in particular how to read statistics (correlation is not causation). Industry needs to provide consumers with the facts in order to stem the tide of ‘chemophobia’ and in addition the chemical industry needs to highlight the importance of dose to the question of toxicity.
On the second day of the meeting Alexander Lorestani PhD, of Geltor, presented the Henry Maso Award Lecture with his talk entitled ‘Designing Beauty with Biology’. Lorestani opened by detailing the advances that have been seen in biotech over the past ten years. Biology has become programmable and, importantly the cost of this technology has decreased significantly. Now we have the capability to write DNA, and this has transformed biotech as a platform. Lorestani described biodesign as applying basic engineering principles to lifeforms and one of the core ways of achieving this is through the process of fermentation, which is itself an ancient form of biotechnology. The big challenge of fermentation is creating a very pure product at the end of the process. This is only possible with DNA coding, which has also solved a number of supply chain issues for the industry (for example, sourcing of squalene).
The talk then focused on the potential for collagen to be manufactured via this process, including a type of collagen that has never existed before because the process of biodesign allows you to build a new protein entirely from scratch, which is clearly an exciting proposition. The technology also enables the creation of ingredients that fit well with trends such as ‘clean beauty’ as consumers become more conscious of the various processes each ingredient undergoes during its lifecycle.
Interview with Joel Mantelin, Ashland
Diamond sponsor, Ashland, was presenting with posters and seminar sessions at the show, and during the event, Ashland’s vice president of Biofunctionals, Joel Mantelin, took the time to speak with Personal Care about their latest innovations and plans for the future. Joel began by discussing Ashland’s new product, Infini’tea: “Infini’tea is a very good example of the thinking I am developing nowadays with
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
regard to biofunctionals. If we could summarise this thinking, it is ‘how to live a healthy life in an environment that is either toxic or perceived as toxic’. If you look at all the trends, you will see they fit with this description, as the feeling is that we are in an environment that has some degree of toxicity – sometimes it is very high and so you have the pollution trend, and then you have the blue light trend which is perhaps not as severe as pollution, but it is around. Here, Infini’tea has two positionings, the first of which is to alleviate the effects of monosodium glutamate on the skin. MSG is a powerful neurotransmitter that is a taste enhancer used a lot by the food industry. I became interested in this molecule because there were some publications that showed that hyperactive children were highly exposed or sensitive to glutamate. It also has an effect on the skin as it has been
shown that inflammation can result from high intakes of glutamate. So now we have a solution for the skin to alleviate the effects and keep it healthy.
The second positioning is with yoga. We looked into the benefits of yoga, and one of the benefits is the Brain Derived Neurotropic Factor (BDNF), the expression of which is increased when people practice yoga, and we noticed that this ingredient was also enhancing the expression of BDNF. So we tested on skin comfort, fine lines and wrinkles, along with redness and the healthy aspect of the skin being scientifically measured and proven through the tests.”
Joel also mentioned that he had listened
with interest to Timothy Caulfield’s keynote lecture earlier in the day and felt that this new ingredient can assist with moving wellness trends to a more scientific
February 2020
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