NATURALS 85
Harmless Vegetable oils may be directly applied on skin, with total compatibility. Moreover, thanks to the structure of their fat molecules, these easily penetrate through skin pores, nourishing it as they allow lipid replenishing. This makes a basic difference versus certain products derived from petroleum, as petrochemical fats do not penetrate skin, forming an occlusive layer that hinders skin oxygenation.
Stability
Absence of water in their composition prevents microbial growth inside, making vegetable oils a stable raw material from the microbiological point of view. Therefore, they do not require preservative addition, as long they are not incorporated in an aqueous formulation. Besides, this natural stability avoids risk of pathogen transmission.
Sustainability They are obtained from renewable resources, and they constitute a respectful choice for the environment, compared to other cosmetic ingredients of fossil origin.
Ethical treatment of animals
The use of vegetable raw materials makes the inclusion of materials from animal origin
unnecessary, hence avoiding their exploitation and mistreatment for such purposes. Another advantage of circumventing the use of ingredients for coming from animals is eluding danger of transmission of pathogens infectious to humans, able to cross the species barrier.
Cosmetic benefits
Human skin is the interface between our body and the environment. In mammalians, prevention of water loss and electrolyte leakage through the body surface is achieved by the horny layer of skin (stratum corneum). A healthy dermal barrier is an important protector against dehydration, penetration of microorganisms, allergens, irritants, reactive oxygen species and radiation.
This barrier is embedded in an extracellular matrix rich in lipids, that mediates permeability, prevents excessive loss of body fluids, and protects from external pathogens. In humans, it is known that esters of linear long-chain fatty acids are an essential component in barrier function of skin. These esters, in combination with cholesterol and triglycerides, form stable structures in skin, lowering water permeability. The fatty acids lost by action of environmental agents or simply by ageing, can be easily
replenished, supplied by vegetable oils. Epidermis has great protective and antioxidant abilities, due to the presence of free-radical scavengers as vitamin E (tocopherol), released on the skin surface through sebum. This small molecule penetrates the horny layer, soothing and helping to maintain moisture, accelerating epithelization and contributing to photoprotection. Natural presence of tocopherol i vegetable oils, those incorporated in a cosmetic formulation, would allow increasing levels of this vitamin in the stratum corneum, reinforcing protection. A proper moisturising treatment
involves repairing the lipid barrier of skin, restoring its ability to attract, retain and redistribute water; keeping this way integrity and appearance of skin. Ideally, a moisturising product should be effective not only in terms of prevention of water loss, but also as a good emollient, softening and increasing flexibility, while respectful to sensitive skin, hypoallergenic, fragrance-free, noncomedogenic, affordable and long-lasting. Given that oils from botanical origin gather these properties, they are raw materials particularly suited to formulating quality moisturising cosmetics and any other hygiene or personal care product.
PC
February 2020
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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