36 SKIN MICROBIOME
and are currently exploring various aspects of the skin microbiome, such as overall bacterial biodiversity in skin, and differences between young and aged skin.3,4
Research in this field
is still at a preliminary stage, but there is increasing scientific evidence for the links between skin microbiota and both skin ageing and skin conditions such as rosacea.3 Current strands of research and findings have raised three questions for DSM: Is skin condition affected by a specific skin microbiome or do specific parts of the microbiome affect skin condition?
Is there a link between changes in key physiological parameters such as sebum and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and changes in the skin microbiome?
As standardised testing processes for skin care have not yet been defined extensively, what is the best method for measuring the skin microbiome? With its recognised knowledge and expertise in microbiology, gut health and skin science, the company is well-placed to investigate these questions and has established a unique epidermal microbiome beauty approach which focuses on the interplay between the epidermis and skin microbiome. Developing a reliable methodology to deepen understanding about the relationship between skin flora and skin conditions will enable the personal care industry to come up with targeted solutions to address skin complaints at their root in the future.
An original all-in-one study Mindful of the importance of helping consumers and the wider beauty industry to understand more about the skin microbiome and its relevance, DSM decided to frame a clinical study in the context of the commonly understood skin types of normal, dry and oily skin. Its purpose was to find out whether the microbiome in these three skin types changes during treatment with specific skin actives, and whether biophysical and microbiome analysis of these skin types reveals any correlations. This is one of the first times that these elements have been considered together. To make sure potential findings would be consistent and credible, DSM followed strict protocols and worked with specialist test laboratories. The study involved three groups (one per skin type) each with six healthy Caucasian female volunteers. After reviewing the main methods for identifying skin bacteria,1,2
scientists used 16S rRNA gene
sequence analysis (the Amplicon method) to profile the skin microbiome. The generated data was compared to a DNA database for taxonomic classification and more than 200 different species of bacteria were identified. The microbiome analysis then focused on three specific bacterial species: Cutibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus epidermidis and
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0
Day 0
-11%
-72% Day 7 Day 28 Figure 2: Decrease of C. kroppenstedtii in dry skin in the cheek area after 7 and 28 days of treatment. 66
64
62
60 -7% 58 -11% 56
54 Day 0 Day 7 Day 28 Figure 3: Cutibacterium acnes reduction in oily skin on forehead skin after 7 and 28 days respectively.
Corynebacterium kroppenstedtii. Volunteers in each group applied a specific cosmetic formula related to their underlying skin conditions to the face twice daily for 28 days. TEWL and sebum measurements were taken at Day 0, Day 7 and Day 28, after using the formulations. In parallel, to compare the composition of the microflora population over time in normal, dry and oily skin conditions, swab samples were taken and used to perform 16S rRNA analysis on the forehead and cheek regions at Day 0, Day 7 and Day 28. Through this methodology, scientists were able to show that the actives could have a beneficial effect on the skin barrier in normal, dry and oily skin and that these effects were associated with changes in levels of one or more of the three bacteria.
Boosting Staphylococcus epidermidis and reducing Corynebacterium kroppenstedtii to improve dry skin Staphylococcus epidermidis is a keystone bacterium for the skin. Most strains play a role in maintaining skin health5,6
and metabolic
products in the bacterium improve skin moisture retention and rough skin texture.5 Due to the production of superoxide dismutase, which is known to destroy reactive oxygen species, Staphylococcus epidermidis is also of interest for its anti-ageing properties.5
Corynebacterium kroppenstedtii is a lipophilic bacterium, enriched in rosacea. It is part of the normal skin microbiota but increased levels have been associated with age and skin redness.7
February 2020
Cutibacterium Acnes (%)
Corynebacterium Kroppenstedtii (%)
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