78 SKIN PROTECTION
Actives fight exposome- induced oxidative stress
Hortense Mallard – Inabata/ Pharmasynthese, France
Deep oceans are hostile environments; cold, dark and poorly oxygenated. However, many living organisms evolved to live under these conditions, developing special abilities that have allowed them to survive. Strombine, a rare amino-acid found in many organisms such as sponges, sand worms, oysters, gastropods seemed to play an essential role in cases of environmental stress. In marine invertebrate such as mussels, Mytilus edulis, strombine accumulation was identified as a metabolic stress marker.13
Data suggest that a high
concentration of strombine contributes to regulating osmotic pressure in tissues.14
A
newly developed strombine derivative compound will act at a cellular level to prevent and repair the harmful effects of stress.
Moringa extract the pollution shield
The moringa tree is native to India, from the southern Himalayan valleys. It is known as the miracle tree or tree of life, thanks to its countless benefits on health, and has been used for centuries in traditional medicine. Traditionally, moringa seeds were known, in topical applications, for their antibiotic and anti-inflammatory properties. However recently, seeds were found to be the best natural coagulant discovered so far, and a solution to replace aluminum sulfate in drinking water treatments. They can decrease water turbidity and depollute it from heavy metals.15
These heavy metal
depollution properties are carried by water extractible lectins from the seed.16,17
Further
research has shown that the extract of moringa seeds can clear water by 60% to 90% of cadmium, lead, copper, zinc, nickel, arsenic and aluminum pollutants.18, 19, 20 Stemprotect is a new way to address exposome stress, combining the pollution shield properties of the moringa extract with the protective effect of the rare amino- acid derivative against oxidative stress.
Efficacy tests In vitro efficacy screening Gene activation screening was performed
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE Abstract
Half of the worldwide population lives in cities and is exposed daily to urban pollution. Consequently, pollution has become a public health crisis. By 2030, the urban population will reach 60% and up to 70% by 2050. The high levels of air pollutants are not limited to China or India anymore as Western capitals like Paris and London often exceed the World Health Organization alert levels. Indeed, it is 90% of those citizens that are exposed to higher levels of air pollutant; particles PM10 & 2,5; than the World Health Organization limits.1
studies have demonstrated that human exposure to environmental stress is associated with premature skin ageing and hyper pigmentation.2
A growing number of scientific and epidemiological The deleterious effect of this
stress might be amplified with each other, when combined they form the prooxidant smog also qualified as ‘exposome’.3
elderly Caucasian women, and showed that exposure to traffic related Particulate Matter (PM2.5-PM10) contributes to skin ageing.2
provide further evidence that pollution can accelerate skin ageing.4, 5, 6
The first epidemiological study was conducted on More studies were performed to
Not only wrinkle
formation but also pigmentation spots appearance could be linked with pollution exposure.2
While the underlying mechanism of action of pollution in skin is not clearly
defined, there is strong evidence implicating the generation of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) and subsequent state of oxidative stress in all layers of the skin. 5,7,8,9,10,11,12 According to those discoveries, it seems that protecting skin from exposome-induced oxidative stress is the best way to delay skin ageing.
+42.4* +34.2* +26.3*
Three main efficacy trends emerged: Stress protection: antioxidant, anti- inflammatory
Anti-ageing: tissue adhesion, dermis stimulation and cell longevity
Cell regeneration: stem cells vitality Control 0.00001 0.0001 0.001
Figure 1: stem cells survival rate under oxidative stress (Percentage versus control / p<0.05).
on cell cultures of fibroblasts and keratinocytes to identify potential activity of our newly developed amino-acid.
In vitro stem cells protection against UV- induced oxidative stress assay Our skin is the reserve of several adult stem cells. They are essential to renew epidermis and dermis layer but also to ensure proper wound healing and skin repair in case of environmental assault. Skin ageing is mainly driven by external stress exposure, while intrinsic ageing (genetic predisposition) has a smaller impact. This is due to the high vulnerability of stem cells to the exposome stress, which will lose their ability to self- renew or differentiate. Indeed, stem cell ageing is a process in which stem cells progressively lose their ability and their functionality, succumbing to senescence or apoptosis. Unresolved oxidative stress and concomitant oxidative damages of cellular macromolecules including DNA, proteins, lipids, and carbohydrates have been
February 2020
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