88 FORMULATIONS
FLORATECH Quaternium and Silicone Free Hair Conditioner
with Floraesters K-100 Jojoba PHASE INGREDIENTS
A Deionized Water Water Na2
Versene®
Crystals1 Natrosol® HR CS2
250
B Floramac 103 Floramac
Macadamia Oil Re ned3 Floralipids
Moringa Butter3
22925 166
INCI NAME Disodium EDTA Hydroxyethylcellulose Ethyl Macadamiate Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
Moringa Oil / Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters
Rain Forest RF3410- Cupaucu Butter Refined4 Eusolex® Lanette® Crodacol
S95-PA-(MH)7 Ritamulse SCG8
Vitamin E Acetate9 Amihope®
LL10
Botanimulse® DGMS11
C Zemea®
Propanediol12 Floraesters
K-100 Jojoba3 D Preservativea Fision KeraVeg1813 Fragranceb
E Deionized Water Water Pyridoxine
Hydrochloride14 Niacinamide PC14
Pyridoxine Hydrochloride Niacinamide
F Citric Acid, USP Citric Acid (and) Water (30% Solution)15
Wheat Amino Acids (and) Soy
Amino Acids (and) Arginine HCl (and) Serine (and) Threonine
q.s. q.s.
0.10
0.25 q.s.
Procedure Add the Versene Na2 Crystals to the deionized water of Phase A with moderate propeller agitation. Start heating mixture to 75-80°C. Once the Versene Na2 Crystals are completely dissolved, slowly add the Natrosol 250- HR CS to disperse. Keep mixing until the Natrosol 250-HR CS is completely hydrated. In a separate vessel, mix all of the ingredients of Phase B at 75- 80°C. Add Phase B to Phase A with rapid propeller agitation at 75-80°C to create an emulsion. Once the mixture is uniform, begin cooling to 50-55°C. In a separate vessel, mix the Floraesters K-100 Jojoba with the Zemea Propanediol of Phase C at room temperature. Add the deionized water of Phase C and mix until uniform. Add Phase C to Phase AB with moderate propeller agitation at 50-55°C. Add Phase D to Phase ABC in the order listed with moderate propeller agitation at 45-50°C. In a separate vessel, mix all of the ingredients of Phase E and add to Phase ABCD with moderate propeller agitation at 45-50°C. Add Phase F to Phase ABCDE at 45-50°C with moderate propeller agitation. Continue cooling to room temperature.
a Preservative: Microcare PHD [INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Decylene Glycol (and) Propylene
Glycol] supplied by Thor Specialties, Ltd. b
Properties pH: 5 - 6 Viscosity: 1800 - 9700cP
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE Fragrance: Cassablanca Lily S10-51101 supplied by Premier Glyceryl Stearate (and)
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate Tocopheryl Acetate Lauroyl Lysine
Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate Propanediol Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Water (Aqua) Deionized Water Water
q.s. q.s.
2.00
% W/W q.s.
0.10 0.10
1.00 1.00
0.50 0.50
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (and) BHT 1.00 Cetyl Alcohol Stearyl Alcohol
2.00 2.00
5.00
0.50 0.20 1.00
1.00 1.00
GATTEFOSSÉ Refresh & Protect Bi-Gel SPF30 PHASE INGREDIENTS
INCI NAME A1 Demineralized Water Water
Carbopol® Aqua Acrylates Copolymer SF-1 OS Polymer
A2 Satiaxane™ CX91 Xanthan Gum Glycerin
Glycerin
A3 E.D.T.A. Disodium Disodium Edta Salt
A4 Sodium Hydroxide Water, Sodium Hydroxide (10 % SOL.)
B Emulfree® CBG Isostearyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol Cocoate, Ethylcellulose
Acticire® MB Jojoba Esters, Helianthus
Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Polyglycerin-3
Schercemol™ Dis Diisopropyl Sebacate Ester
Hallbrite® BHB Butyl Octyl Salycilate
Cocoate™ BG Butylene Glycol Cocoate Parsol® Uvinul®
1789 Tinosorb®
Parsol® Parsol® Parsol®
S Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
A PLUS Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
MCX Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate EHS 340
Ethylhexyl Salicylate Octocrylene
Tinogard®
Water Parsol®
TL C Preservative HS
Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol Preservative
D Demineralized Water Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid
Sodium Hydroxide Water, Sodium Hydroxide (10 % SOL.)
E Parfum Dome Fragrance Relax
F Sodium Hydroxide Water, Sodium Hydroxide (10 % SOL.)
Procedure Mix water + Carbopol® Aqua SF1-OS at room temperature. Then add A2 (pre-
dispersed right before introduction in A1) and mix for 5 minutes (600-800 rpm). Then add A3 and mix for 5 minutes until complete solubilization of EDTA. Then add A4 to neutralize partially Carbopol®
Aqua SF1-OS. Heat B up
to 80 °C until complete solubization. Add slowly B (75 °C) to A (75°C) under mixing (1500 rpm) for 15 minutes. Cool under high shear (1200 rpm) for 30 minutes to 40 °C. Then add C under mixing (600 rpm). Premix D until complete solubilization of Parsol®
rpm) for 1minute. Cool under mixing to 30-35 °C. Then add E under mixing (600 rpm) for 1 minute. Add F to adjust pH above 7.2. Complete cooling to 25-27 °C under mixing (600 rpm). Properties
Aspect: Glossy and slightly yellow fluid emulsion pH = 7.3 ± 0.3 Viscosity Brookfield RV (spindle A, speed 5): approx. 5 000 mPa.s after 24h SPF in vivo (ISO 24 444): 35 (5 subjects)
February 2020 HS and add to batch under mixing (600-800 5.00
3.00 3.00 3.00 0.50
BIS-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl 3.00 Triazine
2.00 5.00 5.00 1.00 0.70 6.00
3.00 4.00
0.30 1.15
1641-2.04 % W/W
41.65 3.00
0.10 3.00 0.10
0.50 5.00 1.00
Suppliers
1 The Dow Chemical Co. 2 Ashland, Inc. 3 Floratech 4 Beraca Ingredients 5 EMD Chemicals 6 BASF Corporation 7 Croda, Inc. 9 Essential Ingredients
8 Rita Corporation 10 Ajinomoto Co. Inc. 11 Botanigenics, Inc.
12 DuPont Tate & Lyle BioProducts 13 Tri-K Industries Inc. 14 DSM Nutritional Products 15 Archer Daniels Midland Co.
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