76 HAIR CARE
30 27 24 21 18 15 12 9 6 3 0
PVP/VA PVP/K-90 Figure 2: Volume enhancement of Sodium Polyitaconate.
sets it apart from the average styling polymers in today’s products. When used at just three percent active in
a formulation, the unique polymer has been shown to also provide protection to the hair cuticle from styling implements at temperatures up to 450 °F/232 °C. This thermal protection was confirmed after the polymer was applied from a solution and then repeatedly flat ironed at 450°F before being measured (via wetting force) for hydrophobicity of the remaining cuticle; a control was exposed to the same conditions and used to measure the hydrophobicity of hair with a thermally damaged cuticle which exposes the hydrophilic cortex of the fibres. This means that consumers using a product with Sodium Polyitaconate in it prior to blow-drying or flat-ironing their hair will be able to significantly reduce the amount of damage caused to the hair by these thermal tools without negatively impacting the gliding properties. Natural polymers or ingredients are often seen to offer some degree of hair repair, but there are very few which can offer thermal protection, a property usually exclusive to only synthetic polymers offering hard holds. The reason that this polymer performs so well in these applications can be attributed yet again to the critical points at which it interacts along the length of the hair shaft. By interacting at these specific loci, Sodium Polyitaconate can ensure that the cuticle lays flat and is held in place to reduce damage and prevent the exposure of the hair cortex to the environment. As it turns out, the interaction at these specific points brings additional benefits.
Due to the way it dries onto the hair, Sodium Polyitaconate brings with it an accelerated drying time upon application. In comparison to traditional film formers, products containing Sodium Polyitaconate were shown to dry significantly faster upon application. This accelerated drying was observed both in tests that simulate air drying as well as tests which mimic blow- drying styling. Through both sets of testing,
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE AmazeTM SP Figure 3: Thermal Protection from Sodium Polyitaconate.
the hair was noted both scientifically as well as subjectively to dry faster than any other film formers screened; the solution was applied to a wet hair swatch and weighed over time while left to dry under lower relative humidity conditions and then compared to swatches of water wet hair as well as a traditional film former As time is a rare commodity, more so today than ever before, any product that provides more immediate results or performs faster, even if saving only a few crucial minutes, is very appealing to consumers, particularly Millennials. Sodium Polyitaconate can be formulated into a wide array of products, ranging from mousses and spritzes to more paste-like applications such as gels, creams, and waxes and will still yield the drying acceleration in addition to the numerous other benefits inherent to the polymer. And depending on how the formulations are made up, the polymer can be used to add texture to the hair, prime the hair for further styling, or lock in a light style without adding crunch or weight to looks.
0.00
-10.00 -20.00 -30.00 -40.00 -50.00 -60.00 -70.00 -80.00 -90.00 -100.00
0 10 20 30 40 Time (min) Figure 4: Measured drying improvement of Sodium Polyitaconate. February 2020 50 60 Results and discussion
Based on the data explained above, it is very easy to see that Sodium Polyitaconate (commercial name Amaze™ SP) is a unique polymer for today’s consumers. Though the manner which Amaze SP forms its film may not be conventional by traditional film- forming standards, it still is able to create and hold a style to the hair while also offering unique benefits and claims. The discontinuous film interacts at critical sites along the hair shaft to lightly hold its form while also offering pathways for the hair to breathe and release any excess moisture. This is evident when analysing the results from the accelerated drying studies. In addition to the accelerated drying, it also offers the benefits of frizz protection, volumisation, and thermal protection. Benefits such as these are not uncommon, but when measured against other natural polymers, become much rarer. Nouryon takes a deep passion in
offering the class leading technical and formulation support that has made it so valuable to customers.
Blank AmazeTM
SP Polyquaternium-4 PC
0.006 0.005 0.004 0.003 0.002 0.001 0
Virgin Control Heat Treated Control 3% AmazeTM
SP polymer
Thermal Protection Improvement
70
80
Hair Width Change (%)
Percent Moisture Loss
Force mN
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