MEN’S GROOMING 31
Multiple benefits for the under-eye region
The cosmetic active ingredient Eyeseryl® peptide is a tetrapeptide that helps improve the appearance of the eye contour by mainly reducing skin damage of this delicate region and by minimising the presence of eye puffiness and dark circles. The efficacy of the ingredient has been evaluated in vitro, as well as in vivo in men and women.
Decreased glycation activity The glycation reaction was analyzed using a model containing the Zn-Superoxide Dismutase (SOD) enzyme and fructose. Eyeseryl peptide (now referred to as ‘the tetrapeptide’) was added to this reaction at different concentrations and the final SOD activity was evaluated by a colorimetric method to determine glycation after each treatment.
Results showed that after the treatment, the inactivation of SOD due to glycation was reduced (Fig 1), suggesting that the tetrapeptide helps inhibit the glycation process that damages the tissue.
Inhibition of vascular permeability The ability of the active ingredient to inhibit vascular permeability was demonstrated on a monolayer of human umbilical vein endothelial cells. The model was treated for 24 hours with the tetrapeptide or with medium as a control. Interleukin-1β (100 ng/mL) was used as a positive control of increased vascular permeability. After the treatments, the extent of permeability of fluorescein isothiocyanate-dextran through the monolayer was determined. The tetrapeptide reduced vascular
permeability (Fig 2), which can be linked to the prevention of liquid accumulation under the eyes.
Bilirubin degradation An assessment was made in tubo to assess the ability of the ingredient to induce degradation of this coloured by-product. A solution of 0.01% conjugated bilirubin was
0 days Placebo
160 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0
Control **
-5.7%
-16.0% -50.3% ****
Glycation
EYESERYL®
peptide
EYESERYL®
peptide (0.01 mg/mL)+glycation (0.1 mg/mL)+glycation Figure 2: Variation in vascular permeability (vs control: **p<0.01; ***p<0.001).
120 100 80 60 40 20 0
Non-dIfferentiated control cells
DIfferentiated control cells
EYESERYL®
peptide (1 mg/mL)+glycation
-29.0% ***
*
-15.7% **
-24.4%
Caffeine (0.2 mg/mL)
EYESERYL®
peptide (0.005 mg/mL)
EYESERYL®
peptide (0.01 mg/mL) Figure 3: Percentage of lipid accumulation under different treatments (*p<0.05; **p<0.01; ***p<0.001).
mixed with 10 mg/mL of the tetrapeptide and, after 24 hours, the concentration of bilirubin was evaluated by HPLC. The active ingredient helped reduce bilirubin by 18.5%, suggesting a decrease in dark coloration under the eyes.
Reduced lipid accumulation Primary human subcutaneous preadipocytes were incubated in growth medium for 24 hours and were used as a non-differentiation
14 days 28 days
control. Separately, preadipocytes were differentiated into adipocytes and these cells were either left untreated as a differentiation control or were treated with the tetrapeptide for 8 days. A solution of caffeine (0.2 mg/mL) was used as a positive control. Lipid accumulation in the cells was quantified by fluorescence using the Nile Red staining, and after the treatment with the new tetrapeptide, this was significantly reduced (Fig 3).
Placebo 1% EYESERYL® 0
-5 1%
EYESERYL® peptide solution B
-10 -15 -20 -25 -30 -35 -40 -45
-6.9% ** -11.8% *** peptide solution B
-24.2% 14 days
-29.7% 28 days
Figure 4: 3D images of the under-eye skin surface. Homogenisation, due to a reduction in swelling, can be observed as a tendency to achieve an overall green colour.
February 2020
Figure 5: Changes in eyebags volume. Average and maximal values are shown (vs initial time: **p<0.01 (14 days), ***p<0.001 (28 days); vs placebo: *p<0.05 (14 days), ***p<0.001 (28 days)).
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Lipid accumulation %
Vascular Permeability %
Volume reduction %
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