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80 SKIN PROTECTION


and extracellular matrix (collagen) of the dermis thanks to molecular anchors. Laminins and fibronectin are the most important anchor proteins within the junction. The DEJ plays a fundamental role in skin such as mechanical support for the adhesion of the epidermis to the dermis. Or control of basal keratinocytes polarity and their migration and structural organisation in the epidermis. The most reproducible structural change in skin ageing is DEJ flattening with a reduction in its protein content. This results in a decrease of connections between layers, a lower resistance to shearing forces and an increased vulnerability to insults. The smaller surface area between the two layers also reduce communications and cellular supply of nutrients and oxygen between the dermis and epidermis. Flattening is associated with a decreased rate for keratinocytes proliferation, and increased potential dermo-epidermal separation, thus facilitating wrinkle formation. 29, 30, 31, 32, 33 Data in Figures 4 & 5 show that the new


strombine derivative amino-acid can reinforce dermal epidermal junction thus increasing the level of fibronectin (16759 ng/ml*, +54%) and to stimulate collagen synthesis (4788 ng/ml *, +42%). Protocol: Skin biopsies were obtained


from woman donor of 44 years old. They were incubated over 48h at 37°C in a humid atmosphere and 5% CO2


, without (control)


or with an increasing concentration of the amino-acid (0.00001, 0.0001 and 0.001% v/v, pre-diluted at 10% in DMSO and added to the culture medium). At the end of the incubation period, dosage of pro- collagen I and fibronectin were performed in culture medium. Results are expressed in ng of protein by mL of medium. Data in Figure 6 show that the new


strombine derivative amino-acid can reinforce dermal epidermal junction increasing the level of Laminins (+14.4%*). Protocol: Cells from woman donor were incubated at 37°C in a humid atmosphere and 5% CO2


, when confluence was


reached, they were incubated for 96 hours without (control) or with an increasing concentration of amino-acid (0.001, 0.01 and 0.1% v/v, pre-diluted at 10% in DMSO and added to the culture medium). At the end of the incubation period, dosage of total laminins in the cell media were performed. Results are expressed in ng of laminins by µg of total proteins. All conditions were tested in triplicate (n=3).


Clinical study: improvement of skin radiance Data obtained from ANTERA 3D®


show that the active complex, at 2% in a serum, can increase Individual Typology Angle (ITA) by up to 8%, after only two weeks of product application on the face. Protocol: 22 healthy women volunteers


PERSONAL CARE EUROPE measures


16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0


14.4* 12.5 10.7


6 Hüls A, et al. Ozone exposure and extrinsic skin aging: results from the SALIA cohort, Journal of Investigative Dermatology 2015; 135: 286


7 Baudouin C, et al. Environmental pollutants and skin cancer. Cell Biology and Toxicology 2002; 18(5) 5: 341–348


8 Pryor WA. Mechanisms of radical formation from reactions of ozone with target molecules in the lung, Free Radical Biology and Medicine 1994; 17(5):451-65.


9 Donaldson K. Combustion-derived nanoparticles: a review of their toxicology following in- halation exposure, Particle and Fiber Toxicology 2005; 2(10).


10 Valacchi G, et al. Ozone exposure activates oxidative stress response in murine skin, Toxicology 2002; 179(1-2):163-70.


Control


0.0001 Laminins


0.001


11 Farris PK, Krol Y. Under persistent assault: understanding the factors that deteriorate human skin and clinical efficacy of topical antioxidants in treating aging skin, Cosmetics 2015; 2(4): 355-367.


Figure 6: Levels of Laminins in culture medium. (ng/µg of total proteins/ p<0.05)


from Miravex, photographs were taken in triplicate, using Trichoscan®


Smart from


Tricolog, under room temperature and humidity-controlled conditions.


Conclusion


The combined activities of the moringa extract and the newly discovered strombine derivative amino-acid confers to Stemprotect the ability to fight exposome- induced oxidative in stress in skin. The protection of stem cells, the DNA repair properties and DEJ rejuvenation gives to this innovative active ingredient the ability to fight skin ageing drastically improving skin look and radiance.


PC


References 1 http://www.euro.who.int/en/health-


topics/environment-and-health/air-quality.


2 Vierkotter Schikowski T, Ranft U et al. Air borne particle exposure and extrinsic skin aging. Journal of Investigative Dermatology 2010; 130(12):2719-26.


3 Krutmann J, Bouloc A, Sore G, Bernard BA, Passeron T. The skin aging exposome, Journal of Dermatological Science 2017 85(3):152-161.


4 Li M, Vierkötter A, Schikowski T, et al., Epidemiological evidence that indoor air pollution from cooking with solid fuels accelerates skin aging in Chinese women. Journal of Dermatological Science 2015; 79(2):148-54.


5 Schroeder P, et al. Premature skin aging by infrared radiation, tobacco smoke and ozone in skin aging; Springer Berlin Heidelberg: Berlin, 2006.


with Caucasian skin type. Each volunteer applied a formulation containing 2% new strombine derivative for 28 days, twice daily. Before the study started, and then after 14 and 28 days, ITA skin measurements were taken using a ANTERA 3D®


12 Thiele JJ, Podda M, Packer L.Tropospheric ozone: an emerging environmental stress to skin, Biological Chemistry 1997; 378(11):1299-305.


13 Zachariassen KE, et al. Physiological parameters in ecotoxicology comparative biochemistry and physiology part C, Comparative Pharmacology 1991; 100(1-2):77-79


14 Simpson JW, et al. Free amino acids in some aquatic invertebrates, Biological Bulletin Publications Marine Biological Laboratory 1959; 117(2): 371-381


15 Eman A, et al. Production of natural coagulant from Moringa Oleifera seed for application in treatment of low turbidity water, Journal of Water Resource and Protection 2010; 2: 259-266


16 Freitas JHES, et al. Evaluation of using aluminum sulfate and water-soluble Moringa oleifera seed lectin to reduce turbidity and toxicity of polluted stream water, Chemosphere 2016; 163:133-141


17 Ghebremichael KA, et al. A simple purification and activity assay of the coagulant protein from Moringa oleifera seed, Water Research 2005; 39(11):2338-44.


18 Freitas JH et al. Evaluation of Moringa oleifera seed lectin as a metal remover in aqueous solutions, Protein Pept Let 2016; 23(7):645-9.


19 Parmar M, Thakur LS. Heavy metals CU, NI and ZN: toxicity, health hazards and their removal techniques by low cost adsorbents: a short overview, IJPAES 2013; 3(3)


20 Araujo C, et al. Bioremediation of waters contaminated with heavy metals using Moringa oleifera seeds as Biosorbent, INATCH, 2013


21 Chen F et al. Oxidative stress in stem cell aging, Cell Transplantation 2017; 26(9): 1483–1495.


22 Goodell et al., Hoechst 33342 HSC Staining and Stem Cell Purification Protocol, Journal of Experimental Medicine 1996.


23 Farage MA et al. Structural changes of aging skin: a review, Cutaneous and Ocular Toxicology 2007; 26(4): 343-357


24 Rinnerthaler M, et al. Oxidative stress in aging human skin mark, Biomolecules 2015; 21;5(2):545-89.


February 2020


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