30 MEN’S GROOMING
The eyes: a reflection of genderless beauty
Alicia Giménez, Olga Laporta, Elena Cañadas, Eulalia González, Raquel Delgado – Lipotec SAU, Spain
As the definition of masculinity continues to evolve, men are paying more and more attention to their health and wellness. As a result of becoming interested in looking good, for both esthetic and emotional reasons, males are taking up regular grooming habits. They prefer simple personal care products with multi-functional ingredients that offer a variety of benefits. A zone that is often targeted by men
care products is the eye contour. The area around the eye is particularly delicate and requires the use of appropriate skin care products. The skin in this part is significantly thinner than elsewhere on the body, being up to 10 times slimmer than facial skin. It presents a thin layer of corneocytes and a poor barrier function. In addition, it experiences more accentuated ageing changes such as a rapid collagen and elastin degradation. Altogether, these characteristics make the skin of the periorbital region more vulnerable to experience damage, resulting in a less attractive, older and more tired look.
Biological causes of eyebags and dark circles Various factors, such as tissue deterioration, fluid buildup and excess fat may contribute to the formation of bulging bags and dark coloration around the eyelids. Tissue weakening With age, loss of elastic fibres, together with damage in the collagen network lead to a loss of elasticity and the consequent accumulation of loose skin, forming sagging eyelids. Lifestyle factors such as a diet rich in sugars can worsen this damage. Glycation reactions between glucose or other monosaccharides and amino acids of dermal proteins causes the production of advanced glycation end products and protein cross-linking with the subsequent degradation of the extracellular matrix. Cutaneous deterioration leads to skin thinning and thus to a greater transparency, contributing in turn to a higher visibility of subcutaneous vascularity, which is closely related to the appearance of dark circles. Fluid buildup
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE Abstract
Given the expansion of masculine products for facial skin care on the shelves around the world, eye contour ranges are in the spotlight as they can help reduce unwanted bags, dark circles and fatigue signs, offering excellent improvements in facial appearance. The skin surrounding the eyes is one of the most delicate of the body, which is why it can experience more accentuated ageing changes that easily worsen the appearance of such important area. Eyeseryl®
glycation, vascular permeability and lipid accumulation, to minimise the presence of eyebags and dark circles and reduce skin damage in the fragile eye contour. As the clinical studies show, the ingredient is a good candidate to introduce in skin care formulations to improve the overall eye contour region of both men and women.
120 100 80 60 40 20 0
Control peptide acts son the mechanisms of ** -25.8% **** -16.2% **** -9.7%
Glycation
EYESERYL®
peptide (0.01 mg/mL)+glycation
EYESERYL®
peptide (0.1 mg/mL)+glycation
EYESERYL®
peptide (1 mg/mL)+glycation Figure 1: Variation in SOD activity at different concentrations (vs control: **p<0.01; ****p<0.0001).
An excess fluid accumulation, or edema, under the eye is one of the factors behind swollen eyebags. It can result from poor lymphatic circulation and increased capillary permeability.
These types of eyebags can present a purplish colour associated with infraorbital darkening mostly related to the presence of coloured compounds, such as bilirubin. This pigment permeates from blood vessels, accumulating under the eyes and making dark circles more prominent. Excess fat
Excess orbital fat is a main contributor in causing eyebags. With age and due to a weakening of the tissue, such orbital fat can start to protrude forward, causing visible bulges. Additionally, increased cutaneous laxity due to ageing and to the gravitational force that continuously pulls the skin and fat down, results in decreased support from
the tissue, which becomes unable to prevent fat protrusion.
A matter of gender Baggy eyes have been mostly related to the aging process itself. However, other factors such as gender, lighter skin colour, high body mass index and smoking also contribute to the presence of this esthetic concern. Research suggests that gender influences the presence of eye puffiness, being men more prone than women to present eyebags related to lipids due to fat protrusion. Furthermore, eyelid laxity and loss of elasticity have also been observed to be higher in men than in women. These differences in gender are believed to be explained by the biological differences between the sexes, such as hormonal and facial shape differences.
February 2020
SOD relative activity %
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