40 SKIN MICROBIOME
Acne is associated with bacterial dysbiosis Acne vulgaris, commonly called acne, is one of the most common chronic skin disorders. It is an inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit, resulting in an excessive sebum production and the appearance of comedones, papules, pustules and occasionally nodules. Acne mainly affects teenagers, but in recent years its prevalence and incidence in adults has increased, especially among women.5 The bacteria Staphylococcus
epidermidis and Propionibacterium acnes (recently renamed Cutibacterium acnes) are the predominant residents on human epithelia, where they live in close proximity. P. acnes has long been thought to play a major role in acne pathogenesis, as the over-colonisation of the pilosebaceous unit by this liphophilic bacteria may lead to the release of inflammatory mediators and the development of acne lesions. S. epidermidis and P. acnes have also been shown to interact: S. epidermidis owns, by different mechanisms, to inhibit proliferation of P. acnes. Thus, S. epidermidis seems to participate in the equilibrium of the microbiota, allowing for a healthy skin.6
Recent research indicate that
acne skin sites are characterised by a decreased number of S. epidermidis and an over-colonisation by P. acnes.6,7
In this
context, rebalancing the S. epidermidis / P. acnes ratio would help to regulate the growth of P. acnes and to improve skin condition. These data open new perspectives in the treatment of acne: a balanced skin microbiota, and more precisely a balanced S. epidermidis / P. acnes ratio should be the aim in any acne treatment.
In this perspective, Codif laboratories have developed a marine post-biotic, EPS Seapur, that will contribute to re-equilibrate the skin microbiota and thus improve skin condition in patients with moderate acne.
Before treatment 0.20 0.15 +13% 0.10 0.05 0.00 Initial conditions After 4 weeks of
treatment with EPS Seapur
Figure 2: Evolution of the S. epidermidis / P. acnes ratio after 4 weeks of treatment with EPS Seapur.
EPS Seapur is an aminated oligosaccharide isolated from an ExoPolySaccharide (EPS) produced by a marine bacterium. It is obtained through the patented HTAC technology: HydroThermolysis Accelerated by supercritical CO2
. This technology is a
green process that can depolymerise molecules to make them easier to assimilate, without using solvents or enzymes and creating any waste. EPS Seapur has been tested for 4 weeks at 0.5% on a group of women suffering from moderate acne. Skin microbiota of the volunteers was sampled before and after treatment by EPS Seapur. First, it appears that EPS Seapur can be considered as a microbiota-friendly active ingredient. Indeed, at the species level, the microbiota prints before and after 4 weeks of treatment are highly similar (Fig 1). The respect of the bacterial landscape is an important property, as cosmetic products have often been implicated in the alteration of the skin microbiota.8
If we then have a look to the two
predominant species S. epidermidis and P. acnes, we observe that the treatment with
After 4 weeks of treatment with EPS Seapur
the marine post-biotic improves the S. epidermidis / P. acnes ratio (Fig 2). The ratio is increased by +13%, indicating an action in favour of S. epidermidis. Given its ability to limit P. acnes proliferation, this result should be accompanied by a decrease in the number of lesions and an improvement of skin quality. The clinical assessments conducted by a dermatologist revealed a positive impact of the ingredient on cutaneous imperfections related to acne. After 4 weeks of treatment, the number of acne lesions significantly decreased by - 23% (p<0.05), and the redness of lesions decreased by -20% (p<0.1). At the end of the treatment, 20% of the volunteers no longer have lesions. Clinical evaluations also highlighted an improvement in skin quality following treatment with the new ingredient: skin texture is improved by +5.5%, and skin complexion by +11%. Figure 3 illustrates the beneficial effects of the treatment. In addition to these results, in vitro experiments conducted on reconstructed human epidermis highlighted a positive effect of EPS Seapur on the skin barrier function (data not presented here).
Disequilibrium in bacterial and fungal populations in dandruff scalps Dandruff is a common chronic scalp disorder characterised by flaking and scaling of the scalp, accompanied by itch and irritancy. About half of the human population is affected by dandruff at some point in their life. Scalp dandruff can be associated to many factors, including host factors and the microorganism residents. There is a near-universal acceptance that colonization of the scalp by Malassezia species has a significant role in dandruff development, but recent studies point out that a disequilibrium in the proportion of the major bacterial and fungal population is associated with dandruff scalp.9,10,11 The scalp, which differs from the skin of
the rest of the body by the fact that it contains a very large number of hair follicles and by the presence of numerous and voluminous sebaceous glands, has a specific biotic community. Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis are the major bacterial colonisers. The former has been associated with healthy scalp, and the latter with dandruff scalp. Thus, healthy scalps are associated with a high P. acnes / S. epidermidis ratio compared to dandruff scalps.10
The fungal component is almost
Figure 3: Visualisation of the global benefit of treatment with EPS Seapur for 4 weeks on skin imperfections.
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exclusively represented by liphophilic species belonging to the genus Malassezia, including M. restricta and M. globosa. Dandruff is associated with a higher amount of M. restricta and a lower amount of M. globosa, and a high M. globosa / M. restricta ratio is characteristic of healthy scalp.
February 2020
S.epidermidis/
C.acnes ratio
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