HAIR CARE 75
The future of bio-based polymers for hair care
Jens Müller, Andrew Robertson – Nouryon, US
It is no secret that the personal care industry is one of frequent change, largely due to shifts in consumer behaviour and trends; specifically, the hair styling market has evolved significantly in recent years. Gone are the days of elaborate styles, requiring hard holding products to lock in the look that took several hours to create. There is now a rise in taking a much more minimalistic approach to hair styling. Consumers, especially Millennials, are aiming to achieve a more natural, ‘low key’ and effortless look, which creates a higher demand for more lightweight products. To add to this, the demand for ‘cleaner’ and more natural products is on the rise. Some of this is driven by regulations, such as VOCs, but it is largely due to consumers wanting more transparency from the brands they love. As a result, the hair styling market is faced with creating more products that promote a ‘natural’ look and feel that are also made from organic, natural ingredients. For formulators, this can be a challenge as, historically, the foundation of many hair products is based in the more traditional, hard hold systems. These systems conflict with the 'natural' styling trend both chemically as well as in functionality.
Material and methods Amaze™ SP polymer (INCI: Sodium Polyitaconate) is a unique polymer produced through an eco-conscious process, for the hair styling market. To
produce the polymer, a GMO-free feedstock is used which is then polymerised in water to yield the polymer; the whole process is operated near ambient conditions to drive the reaction while minimising the energy demand of the production.
Supplied as a solid powder, sodium polyitaconate is highly soluble in water and exhibits some solubility in hydro-alcoholic systems to allow formulators some flexibility in their solvent systems. It has shown compatibility with most commonly used styling ingredients as well as frequently used preservative systems. In comparison to most of the common styling polymers currently in the market, Sodium Polyitaconate offers a lower molecular weight used to deliver a light hold yet outstanding hair manageability. Additionally, it has several functional benefits that truly show just how unique it is. While commonly used synthetic polymers create even, continuous films which wrap the complete hair fibre, Sodium Polyitaconate builds a rather discontinuous film on the cuticle edges. This impacts the method of action immensely, broadening the amplitude of known looks, sensory, and claims. Products being promoted as natural and weightless raise the expectations of a different consumer experience. With Sodium Polyitaconate, it is possible to create a neat, clean feel on the hair without compromising on the hold.
Frizz is a common challenge for many Figure 1: SEM Images of Sodium Polyitaconate film on hair. February 2020
consumers today and most solutions include the use of silicones or oils to coat the hair and seal the cuticle. The unfortunate trade-off with these ingredients is that they are heavy and will weigh the hair down. In comparison to these options, Sodium Polyitaconate can reduce the amount of frizz without adding heft to the hair. This has been measured with application of the polymer in a simple solution to curly Brazilian hair, allowed to dry, and then exposed to high temperature and humidity conditions for an extended period of time. It does not take a significant amount of polymer to eliminate any risk of frizzing, and the amount that is necessary will function at critical points along the hair shaft and impart very little additional weight to the hair. But the unique nature of Sodium Polyitaconate plays to more than just the frizz reduction of the polymer. In testing, Sodium Polyitaconate has shown that it can build a significant amount of volume in the hair. Volume is typically seen as being desirable to consumers with thin or fine hair. Unfortunately, having this type of hair presents a challenge with consumers as styling products are often not light enough to create a hold without muting any potential volume added to the hair. But being a lightweight polymer, it can be used to create volume for these types of consumers. In testing a simple solution of the polymer, volume generation was measured after applying the solution to tresses of fine hair, blow drying the tresses and then measuring the volume generated in comparison to the tresses without any product. Through this method, it was shown to help build a style with the light hold it provides along the hair shaft, and through the anionic nature of the polymer, it then generates a charge repulsion that builds volume into the hair. As can be seen in Figure 2, the amount of volume generated by Sodium Polyitaconate is astounding, especially when compared to other commonly used styling polymers. And to see it do so at such a low loading is even more impressive. Yet Sodium Polyitaconate has even more to offer that
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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