TESTING 63
This product is 8 times more expensive than its neighbour, but is equally ultra-mild
These 2 products are from the same brand but the soap is notably milder
Products above this line are classed as Non- irritant, the mildest
classification available
This media favourite claims its low pH levels make it milder than other soaps
Soaps Figure 10: Benchmarking ingredients and products.
on to in vivo studies, particularly for baby care products.
But one of the key applications of this work is also on the marketing side in terms of brand differentiation, because we can provide solid evidence about mildness of an ingredient or a formulation compared with others that are available on the market. This helps to move the debate on the old ‘Not Tested On Animals’ label to a much more positive level by actually proactively adopting the latest non-animal technologies to demonstrate product safety and efficacy. Because we feel that consumers will always ask how products are tested, it is important to be able to show that new techniques are actually better than any of the animal studies ever were for skin irritation. And so we are enabling brands to put out a positive message about the efficacy of the product but also the fact that completely animal-free methods are being used.
Soaps and facial cleaners We have used soaps and facial cleansers as part of the database and we feel that this is a very exciting application of this project. This was an exercise that we did using a whole range of face soaps and we decided to compare those with traditional facial cleansers. The reason we did this is that there has been a lot of information in the press and magazines recently about facial soaps coming back into fashion because they do not use plastic packaging. We
February 2020
wanted to know whether those soaps are performing in terms of mildness compared to traditional cleansers. And we were able to tease out some very subtle differences. In Figure 10 you can see the soaps on the left-hand side in the red bars and the facial cleansers on the right-hand side, the blue bars. There is a wide range of different ET50 values in both product groups. In general the ET50 values are still greater for the facial cleansers which means that in general, based on the data we have so far, they are still milder, which you might expect, based on the formulations. But we can pick out some very
interesting observations. For example, we had two products which were from the same brand, the soap and the cleanser, and we could show that the soap is considerably milder. We had a wide range of price points for these products as well. And there is not necessarily a correlation between what people are paying for the product and how mild it is. So it was really useful to be able to compare some mass- market products with some of those exclusive, niche, more expensive formulations.
Conclusion We have shown that the in vitro data accurately predicts the rank order of the human in vivo scores and we have seen that agreement in all cases, even when the differences between the formulations were
very, very subtle. Those same differences were seen in vitro and in the human in vivo clinical scores. This has given us a lot of confidence in our in vitro model. Plans for the future include growing the database to a wider range of products and also a greater number of products within each range so we can expand on that benchmarking capacity of the test. This is critical to understanding what it all means in terms of applying real-life industry data from new formulations. We would also like to widen the use of model as a pre-screen for baby care products, so this can be done before moving into human patch testing. The test is now available; it is called XtraMild and is now available for our client companies to use. On the in vivo side, it has been
interesting to see that when it comes to very mild products, the expertise of highly experienced dermatology nurses is better than the technical measurements we made of erythema and irritation.
It was also important for us to see the link between the subtle signs of consumer relevant irritation, such as scaling, papules, spots, and these contribute to making an accurate assessment of how a product might be irritating the skin. So being able to do it in such a systematic way across a wide range of product types is a real luxury that you do not normally get when doing commercial work. To build up a database of information like this is vital.
PC PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Facial cleansers
ET -50 value
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