72 HAIR CARE
Ingredients focus: hair growth and care products
Richard Scott – Edtor, Personal Care
Hair care products are an important cornerstone of the industry and have steadily become more aligned with the latest skin care market claims. Consumers want to treat their hair as well as their skin, and importantly want it to be healthy. Key to that desire is stimulating healthy growth of hair, which an increasing number of active ingredients claim to assist with, either by slowing down loss of hair or boosting the hair’s regrowth. Following is a selection of some of the latest hair care actives and hair growth-related products available from key global suppliers.
Hair care BASF’s anti-ageing active ingredient for hair, DN-Age slows down the hair greying process and reduces hair loss. The active ingredient acts on the scalp by preventing UV induced DNA damage. It also protects hair follicle cells to prevent hair greying and hair ageing. DN- Age leads to greater hair density: 80 percent of panellists perceived their hair to be stronger, fuller, and thicker. Extracted from Cassia alata leaves and titrated in flavonoids, DN-Age is also COSMOS approved and IECIC listed. DN-Age is available as a concentrated powder and a hydro-glycerin solution. Also from BASF, The seed extract Rambuvital protects both the scalp and hair follicles against pollution-induced stress. It increases hair follicle vitality and reduces sebum oxidation triggered by exposure to pollutants and UV. The seed extract enhances the cornified scalp’s barrier function, contributing to water retention by increasing transglutaminase-1 and loricrin synthesis in keratinocytes. In vivo, the scalp was significantly more hydrated within one month and the hair appeared and felt visibly healthier and shinier.
Glycolic acid is the best known and smallest of the alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) and is widely used for hair care and chemical peelings. GlyAcid is a high-purity glycolic acid made by Berg + Schmidt’s partner CrossChem. A unique production and cleaning process results in a product free of formaldehyde. With it, CrossChem is meeting the growing demand worldwide for purer glycolic acid.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
improving its combability and handling. MultiMoist CLR also protects against colour fading caused by repeated washing with shampoo. It dramatically reduces hair breakage from combing and MultiMoist CLR has a strong impact on static flyaway too. Hair frizziness is significantly reduced as well. MultiMoist CLR consists of a powerful synergistic blend of fructooligosaccharides and beta vulgaris (beet) root extract. KeraGuard from Mibelle Biochemistry combines tara tannins derived from Caesalpinia spinosa pods and organic sunflower sprout extract. This unique combination is revealed as a powerful antioxidant elixir for hair care applications. Although hair is a physiological
For more than 40 years, glycolic acid has
been predominately produced by either the carbonylation of formaldehyde or with glycolonitrile as a starting material. Both processes leave residual traces of formaldehyde in the finished commercial product. By contrast, CrossChem’s GlyAcid is
produced using a proprietary acid saponification and purification process that does not use formaldehyde while delivering a high purity glycolic acid in 57% solution, 70% solution and 99% crystalline. MultiMoist CLR, from CLR, activates
production of the vitamin D receptor (VDR) and promotes the VDR’s activation. MultiMoist CLR also potentiates the effect of vitamin D. As a consequence the skin becomes more moisturised. By making use of 5 different objective instrumental approaches, the immediate and long term moisturising properties of MultiMoist CLR were convincingly proven. Additionally, the activity of MultiMoist CLR was proven in a consumer study, where the subjective improvement of skin moisture content, skin smoothness and the look of skin were confirmed.
In addition, MultiMoist CLR binds water in the cortex of hair, improving a variety of important hair qualities. It is a hair conditioner,
phenomenon, it is also a social one. Indeed, hair is an object of intense elaboration and preoccupation in almost all societies. Hairstyles and rituals surrounding hair care and adornment tend to convey powerful messages about the beliefs, lifestyles and commitments of a person. Therefore, our hair is regularly subjected to weathering. Hair weathering is the deterioration of the hair shaft from root to tip and is the result of a range of cosmetic and environmental factors. Cosmetic practices such as combing, brushing, straightening, perming, dyeing, etc., as well as environmental factors such as exposure to UV light and polluted air (significant amounts of free-radical molecules) can induce structural damage to the F-layer and the hair fibre. The cuticle becomes raised and porous, which exposes the cortex to further damage. A decrease in hair shine, colour, elasticity and strength is observed, which ultimately leads to hair damage. In different studies measured utilising state-of-the-art technologies, KeraGuard revealed a capacity to protect hair against free radicals and physical stresses. It was also shown to protect dyed hair from colour fading as well as to repair chemically treated hair. The protective effect of KeraGuard from urban pollution was unveiled by quantitative determination of carbonylated keratin and by high resolution image.
February 2020
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