ANTI-AGEING 95
Pro-ageing: when ageing becomes trendy
n Maud Merlini – Seppic, France Marty Lumain – Seppic, Singapore
“Age-defy”, “slow-age”, “well-ageing” are increasingly replacing the term “anti-age” on packaging and in advertising campaigns for cosmetic products. In the press, young women are also making a little more room for their elders (fifty and above). This is the pro-age trend, which consists of moving away from the beauty ideal defined by eternal youth.
In 2007, a cosmetics brand conducted a study on 1,450 women aged 50 to 64 years old in 9 countries across the world and concluded that “Beauty has no age”.1
Ten
years later, according to women, perception of beauty is following a firmer direction as among more than 10,000 women questioned, 70% think that beauty is something that you define yourself.2
Facing these more liberated and more confident women, several cosmetics brands are now adopting pro-age strategies. They are valuing women over 50 years old, formerly side-lined in the cosmetics sector, and are dedicating specific products to them. Some brands are working on a less negative approach towards ageing and promoting less corrective benefits, such as improving complexion glow. Still others, considering ageing as inevitable, are building a promotion about “ageing well”. Seppic is taking part in this beauty of
age by offering ingredients and by imagining formulations that meet consumers’ new expectations, whatever their age.
Responding specifically to the needs of mature skin Women aged 55 and over form a significant and increasing demographic group for the beauty market, with a real purchasing power. They are waiting for a specific response to their skin changes (in the US, it is thought that 64% of women aged over 55 and using beauty products seek products specifically designed for their age3
). In
particular, hydration is one of the foremost expectations at this time in their life.
September 2019 Disrupted Stratum corneum No water retention Water retention
DRY SKIN Placebo
WITH 0.2% HETEROSIDES
Figure 1: TEWL evaluation - Placebo vs. Emulsion with 0.2% Heterosides 22 volunteers (age~59) with dry skin (HI<50) & with slight to moderate wrinkles on crow’s feet area, twice-daily applications on hemi-face for 28 days - AquaFlux®
on cheekbones / ** p=0.01
The response: Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract Heterosides (INCI: Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract) is the ideal ‘cica’ ingredient for caring gently for the beauty of mature skin: it boosts all the natural mechanisms restoring the skin barrier. In 28 days, hydration (Fig 1) is improved, the skin is visibly smoother (in vivo smoothing effect (Fig 2), panel aged on average 59 yo: –36% vs placebo at 0.2%).
At 0.2%, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
reduces the water loss. The skin barrier is restructured and protected against dehydration or irritant entrance. At 0.2%, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract delivers a smoothing effect by reducing the number of microrelief furrows by 36% and 28% versus placebo after 28 and 56 days respectively. Using the same level, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract corrects wrinkles by
reducing the total wrinkle surface and the medium/deep wrinkles by 19% versus placebo after 56 days.
Enhancing the experience Today, fighting wrinkles and sagging at any cost and searching for the youth grail are gone for these women. For example, in France, 80% of women aged over 55 think that feeling comfortable/good is more important than appearing perfect.3
more likely to follow solutions that both correct and enhance their experience and their skin.
The response: Palmitoyl Glycine Timecode™ (INCI: Palmitoyl Glycine), a glycine biovector lipoamino acid and biomimetic of PalGly molecule, also known as the bliss molecule, is the solution for harmonious longevity of the skin. It
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC RESTRUCTURED SKIN
Restructured Stratum corneum
TEWL reduction: -8%** vs. Placebo (D28)
HIGH TEWL LOW TEWL
They are
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