SKIN PROTECTION 63
Technique: Measuring long-term stability of β-carotene to light and oxygen: β-carotene preparations were soaked on an inert, white support and stored for 60 days under 4 different conditions: Condition 1 - daylight and oxygen atmosphere. Condition 2 - dark and oxygen atmosphere. Condition 3 - daylight and inert atmosphere (nitrogen). Condition 4 - dark and inert atmosphere (nitrogen). Carotenoid degradation was monitored at regular time intervals by measuring the discoloration of the support using a colorimeter. Heat stability: An emulsion with 2% carotenoid active was heated to 80°C and β-carotene levels were measured after 2 and 4 hours. Results: The carotenoid active has excellent long-term stability, superior to other cosmetic preparations. Almost no carotenoid degradation (discoloration) was observed, even in the combined presence of atmospheric oxygen and daylight. By contrast, rapid degradation and discoloration was evident for reference preparations in sunflower oil and in isopropyl myristate (IPM). Further, the carotenoid active is stable at elevated temperatures: 80°C for up to 4h (data not shown).
In conclusion, the active ingredient is the most stable form of carotenoids. It secures long-time storage stability and provides a lasting cosmetic activity on the skin. Further, as a lipophilic active ingredient, the carotenoid active can be used in hot process manufacturing.
Selectively shielding blue light Objective: To show that the carotenoid active selectively absorbs blue light, as an active ingredient, but also in a cosmetic formulation. Techniques: The absorbance spectrum
of the carotenoid active was recorded with a photospectrometer between 350 - 800 nm (Fig 6 A). In an LED light experiment, green, blue and red light was passed
Absorbance spectrum of Carotolino a
Figure 5: Carotolino is long-term stable in the presence of light and oxygen. β-carotene preparations were soaked on a white support and stored for 60 days under day light and ambient oxygen atmosphere. Carotenoid degradation was monitored at regular time intervals by measuring the discoloration of the support using a colorimeter.
Selective absorption of coloured LED light b c * 10 Blue light protection in a cosmetic formulation
Figure 4: Carotolino - the best of carrots: It contains, a lipophilic carrot root extract from Daucus carota - an excellent source of carotenoids (provitamin A); and carrot seed oil - a concentrated essential oil produced through vapour steam distillation of carrot seeds. Key element though, is β-carotene an extremely efficient blue light absorber, that neutralises reactive oxygen species and that has a characteristic lively colour.
Degradation of β-carotene in the presence of light and oxygen
5
*
0 0 0.25 0.5 12 Carotolino (%)
Figure 6: Carotolino is an extremely selective and efficient blue light shield. (A) Maximal absorbance of Carotolino ranges in blue light between 400 - 500 nm. (B) Carotolino shields blue light selectively. Our LED light demonstration shows that Carotolino specifically shields blue light. (C) Light, which has been passed through Carotolino-containing creams, showed significantly lower blue light intensities. N=6; Mean +/- SEM. Student’s unpaired t-test; * = p<0.05.
September 2019 PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
Absorption
Blue Light Protection (%)
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104
