COLOUR COSMETICS 69


The brief for the development of this new emulsifier was the following: l Fully compatible with pigments and other cosmetic ingredients


l Allows the formulation of stable low- viscosity fluid emulsions


l Composed of fully natural origin raw materials and made by using green chemistry


l Can be used in energy-saving manufacturing (cold process)


l PEG-free l Worldwide approved l Equivalent or superior performance to W/Si emulsions


Selection of raw materials Three carefully selected raw materials were reacted together by esterification.


Polyglycerol-6 (PG-6) Polyglycerol is a naturally hydrating ingredient of vegetable origin and is mild and kind to the skin. A polyglycerol-6 was chosen due to the stability brought by the large PG-6 polar headgroup. A special grade containing a very low amount of free glycerol was used to prevent the formation of small glycerol esters that can displace the principle emulsifier and cause instability over time.


12-hydroxystearic acid (12-HAS) This molecule is a homopolymer of a C18 fatty acid with a hydroxyl group on carbon 12. The polymer was well known for dispersing properties. It is a solid ingredient at room temperature.


Ricinoleic acid (RA)


Ricinoleic acid is a very similar structure to the 12-HAS, however possesses an unsaturation on the carbon backbone. This unsaturation brings mobility to the chains,


Greasy afterfeel Soft afterfeel Thickness


10 8 6 4 2 0


n Foundation n Skincare cream n Sunscreen


Spreadability


Softness


Film residue Figure 2: Sensorial evaluation of the W/O emulsifier.


as a result this fatty acid is a liquid at room temperature.


The association of solid 12-HAS and liquid RA has allowed the creation of a structure that is liquid at room temperature and can be used in a cold process. Moreover, contrary to esters obtained using 12-HAS alone, the association with ricinoleic acid allows the creation of an emulsifier that does not thicken the oil phase in formulation. The emulsions are fluid and do not increase in viscosity over time.


When formulated, the emulsifier whose


structure is shown in the Figure 1 forms a W/O emulsion. The PG-6 polar head can be found in the water phase and the 12-HAS and RA long carbon chains extend into the


Foundation performance Complexion uniformity* +47% Imperfections visibility** Healthy glow** +33% Skin fineness** * Self-assessment ** Dermatological scoring


Figure 3: Dermatological and self-assessment scoring of the foundation performance after the first application and the skin quality after 28 days of application on bare skin.


September 2019 PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC -27% -23%


oil phase, bringing stability to the emulsion by steric repulsion. In a formulation containing pigments, the long carbon chains entrap the pigments, holding them in a homogeneous stable but non-rigid dispersion.


No compromise on performance The W/O emulsifier is capable of emulsifying and stabilising highly fluid pigmented emulsions. Compared in formulation with existing emulsifiers on the market, this emulsifier demonstrates superior performance and stability. Its compatibility with a wide range of cosmetic ingredients – emollients, film formers, polymers, pearlescent agents, powders, stabilisers – has been validated. Flexible,


Skin quality Smooth aspect of the skin* Healthy glow** +26% Moisturised appearance of the skin** Skin softness** +11% +26% +16%


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